tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-68345210798337885612024-03-13T03:23:56.459+02:00Prospero's CellphoneA slightly demented but yet oddly positive perspective of Greek life from an expat American/Irish point of view.
~~~truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.comBlogger203125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-61517168090616357212012-02-22T14:28:00.003+02:002012-02-22T14:28:50.404+02:00Still here, Honest!<a href="http://www.hmnh.org/galleries/ichtheology/devonian/LongTimeNoSea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.hmnh.org/galleries/ichtheology/devonian/LongTimeNoSea.jpg" width="155" /></a>It does seem like an exceptionally long time since last I posted.<br />
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Update on T's eye- he's back and it's working- tho not without some healing still taking place. (Still has a little distortion and the pupil is STILL a wee bit dilated.)<br />
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Nevertheless, he's back in the safe haven of home.<br />
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Between my last post and his return, end of January, I discovered there was a new hoop to jump through regarding property ownership in Greece and had to frantically find an engineer to make new and accurate blueprints of our house. It was also necessary to survey our property before the end of December (at the time) as there was a deadline and mega fines to face if it wasn't done properly.<br />
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And yes, Merry Christmas, Happy New Year etc. The deadline originally was the 29th December!<br />
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The whole process was of course massively expensive and "financial son" in Chicago, had to transfer funds, the Tuesday after Christmas, so I could go on Wednesday to the bank (and stand there while they found the transaction and then go away for 1/2 hour while they made it all magically appear in our account!) then across the street, to engineer with wads of euros (who thankfully waited in line at government offices for proper stamps and payments, bless) to come in under the deadline wire. <br />
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Of course because so many people were caught out as it was the holidays, they extended the deadline til the end of February.<br />
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Then the television died, exactly 10 days before T came home. <br />
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According to the three television people I spoke with (all trying to sell me their choices of televisions) the power fluctuations on the island and many parts of Greece in general, make the average lifespan of a flat screen tv (no matter what size, and no matter how many UPS boxes and special shut off switches) to be no longer than 5 years. For that reason I had to shop carefully to pay the least amount for the best product available. <br />
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I got a nice Korean one for a good price (the brand name is FU. I'm not sure if I didn't favor it simply because in my mind those two letters summed up how I felt about having to buy another television 4 years after we bought the last one....)<br />
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It works well and it's way more intelligent than our last television as it discovered how to work the dvd player and the video recorder with almost no help from me!<br />
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I meanwhile have been going through photo albums and memories and scanning pictures into the void of my computer, hoping to get something together for my mother's memorial in April. I'll be spending some time flying out west to Santa Fe for a special memorial with all her friends, then I'll be flying to South Carolina, to hug my university graduating granddaughter!! (then I'll come back to Chicago and face the dentist before returning to Corfu.) <br />
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~~~<br />
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I've obviously come to terms with my mother's passing, but there are moments where the tide of grief is sometimes higher and sometimes lower. I am coping. It's hard, but there are no other alternatives.<br />
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Sometimes, for me, going though these albums and photos going back to cover her life seem to make parts of my life, tho long past, SO vivid.<br />
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Maybe part of this is because things are so dire in the news and reality is filled with so many more unknowns. At least the past is a known. (well, tempered of course by memory which is subjective.)<br />
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Certainly, with all my mother's photo albums, MY past is a visible photographic timeline, as there are photographs not just of me growing up but pictures of my parents and grandparents, aunts, cousins, as children and then as adults. There is such a great continuity with my present and the past. <br />
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My mother won a beauty pageant when she was two years old. <br />
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She was so cute. (and according to my grandmother, she was so well behaved for the photographer, he wanted to make her his child model. That didn't happen.)<br />
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This is also the only photo where in my mother claimed to be a natural blonde. We all spent a lot of time remarking that the photo was NOT in color...<br />
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She always used to talk about this picture and so did my grandmother. <br />
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My aunt used to just roll her eyes.<br />
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I found the certificate that gave her first prize. She kept it in a box with her other little bits of special memories.<br />
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November 1927, and she was first prize - special mention!<br />
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~~~<br />
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So to all who slogged back to check out the blog, I welcome you to another erratic year...<br />
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Meanwhile, I will continue digging through the piles of albums and continue scanning scanning scanning...<br />
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<br />truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-61389905772047339112011-12-10T23:26:00.001+02:002011-12-11T00:23:43.849+02:00Getting into the Christmas spiritToday, in spite of the rain, my friend Samantha and I went into town to see the shops and get into the sights and sounds of Christmas time in Corfu. Monday is a Corfu public holiday (St Spiridion's Day) and sort of officially the start of Corfu's Christmas Holiday Season.<br />
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We decided to meet for a coffee and then do some serious window shopping, followed by a nice lunch. <br />
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For years Sammy's been telling me where the best places to shop are, with me finding my way mostly by accident. Today, finally we decided to do a first hand run though of place and meeting people. (in case you are reading this dear T, I didn't spend too much... honest!) It was just a fun, silly day and we had a marvelous time. <br />
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<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7153/6488621947_1c02bb249f_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="295" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7153/6488621947_1c02bb249f_b.jpg" width="320" /></a>Apropos to nothing at all, there was a lovely performance in the old town in the square by St Spiridion's Church. Here are some pictures...<br />
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Everyone seemed to be having a good time and there were lots of people in the square...<br />
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From what we gathered, it was a gathering of local folk dancers as well as dancers representing other parts of Greece. <br />
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Some of the costumed dancers were from Macedonia (GREEK Macedonia, not the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia...)<br />
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lovely voices and dancers of all ages.<br />
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The men were well represented as well, but they were so drab next to the ladies that I just cropped and put the photos up that pleased me most and best represented the whole surprise...<br />
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It was a lovely charming interlude and it totally made us forget we were going to the store on the other side of the square they were dancing on!!<br />
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Ah well...<br />
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We discovered a charming "new" second hand bookstore next to the Cavalieri Hotel, and had an excellent cappuccino (OK, Samantha had an excellent cup of hot chocolate!) with it we had - between the two of us- one slice of apple tart, that was very very good. <br />
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Then we wandered the back streets, hither and yon, to seek out brilliant little shops that sold a bit of everything. (I found a gorgeous fresh water pearl ring, that would suit me admirably... that I didn't buy- hint hint) I bought a inexpensive belt (seriously needed one for dipping pants), a loaf of amazing bread, a small bottle of Grand Marinier (tis the season), a great present for my granddaughter, and two hand-blown colored glass bowels (in the Venetian style) for 7 euros each. They'll look lovely with tea candles in them, during the next power failure. <br />
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<a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7001/6488628873_2ed012da39_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7001/6488628873_2ed012da39_b.jpg" width="144" /></a>On our way, we came across this window display<br />
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It wasn't so much the chicken, as the fact of the TOTAL chicken....<br />
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We kept thinking that we'd never see something like this in a shop window in say London or even Chicago!<br />
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Then Sammy and I wandered down to the new market (in the place of the old market but finally finished and re-inhabited at last after 4 years) where Sam bought two sea bass for her Sunday lunch.<br />
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From there we went to our respective vehicles and were off to lunch at the Navigators in Kontokoli, where we had a lovely restoring glass of wine, and a marvelous homemade hamburger; for dessert we had a slice of warm gooey chocolate cake and a small scoop of ice cream (- and two forks)! A lovely end to a very very pleasant day.truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-45160757882670678682011-12-06T23:04:00.001+02:002011-12-06T23:49:15.046+02:00Everything re-attached. The patient survived.Just a quick post to update that surgery went well and everyone seems pleased. <br />
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The detached retina is now attached and the surgery went well and very quickly. I just got off the phone with both my son and my husband and they too seemed surprised, pleased, but surprised, that they were home a good two hours earlier than expected.<br />
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T is in excellent health- except for the eye thing- and takes no medications but over the counter stuff on occasion. This seemed to take most of the health providers a bit aback, but his blood pressure and heart rate confirmed that he was in really good shape.<br />
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He said he started to come around about ten minutes before they were finished to mention to them that he was having a bit of trouble breathing as their set up for surgery was making it difficult for him to get enough air, there at the end. They were kind enough to ratchet up the oxygen feed in his nose, so he felt much better. Except for after it was done he was parched and drank about a liter of water and a big glass of apple juice.<br />
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Still he sounded pretty good and not too drugged up.<br />
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They go back to the doctor tomorrow morning, early, to make sure everything is still holding and in the right position.<br />
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As I thought I'd have a bit more time on my hands and sleep was pretty much out of the question til I knew everything was ok, I decided to make soup.<br />
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This actually goes back to the Pease Pudding recipe idea I had for tomorrow.<br />
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This idea is still out there but, just NOT until I find yellow split peas... and not ORANGE LENTILS.<br />
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Yes, I bought lentils instead of split peas. Duh. I'd like to blame it on worry over the eye surgery, but I think it's just me.<br />
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So in time honored tradition ... instead of making lemonade out of life's lemons- I made <a href="http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Orange-Lentil-Soup-Shorabat-Adas-233064">Orange Lentil Soup</a> (Shorabat Adas). <br />
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Well, ok, I made it with only a very few variations. The first one was I didn't measure, because, soup is soup. Meaning I used about a pound of lentils, my own homemade chicken broth cut with water (it's all jellied, so you have to cut it), 2/3 of a huge onion I had in the fridge, and black pepper. (also haven't done the croutons yet either).<br />
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I added to the recipe, 2 carrots (chopped into small pieces), one stick of celery (again chopped), about a teaspoon of celery seed, and I didn't completely liquidize the soup, I left a few bits of carrots for color and texture. <br />
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I also will add a lot of finely chopped fresh flat leafed parsley tomorrow, but it's too dark outside so I can't go get it in the garden tonight.<br />
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So all is well for now and if you decide to make it, enjoy the soup! It's really REALLY good. I will go to sleep now with a warm glow from a cup of lentil soup, and the good news that T's on the mend.<br />
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<br />truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-88809847818504639302011-12-05T20:10:00.001+02:002011-12-05T20:42:51.928+02:00The "eye's" have it...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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So. T's appointment was this morning (US time) in Michigan, and, sadly, after a thorough eye exam, the conclusion was: it was not a false alarm. Indeed the symptoms told the story and it IS a detached retina. <br />
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I read somewhere, online, that strongly nearsighted people have weak retinas. Who knew?? Supposedly it affects about 1 in 10,000 people.<br />
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Some lottery...<br />
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Surgery will go ahead tomorrow morning, and by tomorrow evening everything will be done. <br />
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For a detached retina, it was good news as it was still partially attached. Still it's disconcerting, uncomfortable and serious. Big deal to make sure you keep your sight!<br />
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And the recovery time will again be six weeks with no airplane travel due to the gas bubble placed in to reattach the retina.<br />
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As Pooh says, "Oh Bother." <br />
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The good news is that there are some <a href="http://www.mcfeetech.com/bestvalue.htm">medical aids</a> available, that we didn't know about the last time, so hopefully, it will be less of an annoyance, (and strain on the neck!) and the recovery will pass a bit less slowly.<br />
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Meanwhile, the "girls" and I have been taking long walks in the rain. <br />
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It would seem that whenever I plan to go for a walk with the dogs, the sky opens up just when I'm at the furthest point from the house. (ha-ha, the gods of weather apparently have a sense of humor.) The dogs don't really mind getting wet. I, however, really mind going back into the house with a couple of wet smelly dogs! (tomorrow is dog towel washing day.)<br />
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I made a quiche for lunch, today. My best friend (and masseuse!) stopped by to give my frozen shoulder a work out. ouch. <br />
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But back to the quiche: It was a pretty standard one, with bacon, onions and cheese, but I added mushrooms because T wasn't here. I rarely add them to food, as he doesn't care for them. <br />
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I had the end cut crusts from a couple of pies I made last week and gathered them together to make a sort of franken-crust. It turned out pretty good- still light and flaky if a tad misshapen. (I gave my friend a "doggie bag" of half the quiche, so that she and her mother could have it for dinner tonight.)<br />
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Tomorrow I'm thinking about making Pease Pudding after watching a program on how to make it last night. Everyone was so enjoying it, I figured I'd give it a whirl. I'll try and take some pics and do a post on how I made it.<br />
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Meanwhile, it's good evening from Corfu!truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-80194824512835266762011-12-02T23:18:00.001+02:002011-12-03T11:41:49.127+02:00Happy December!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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And how time flies away from me! <br />
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T is currently winging his way to Chicago to have his eye fixed in the US as opposed to here in Greece. <br />
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It seems he may have <b>another </b>detached retina. (ah genetics) <br />
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He had one in 2005, and had it taken care of in New Mexico, where I was at the time staying with my mother. T had his surgery the day before Christmas 2005. <br />
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It would seem he'll be having surgery again at the same time of year- just six years later- in his other eye. This time it will be in Michigan, and he'll stay with Oldest son and oldest grandson, in "all guy" splendor. It's hard that we'll be apart for this as most of all the big things that happen to us we somehow manage to share. Still I know he'll be in good hands, both with his doctors and with his sons to take care of him.<br />
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I'm staying back here, to hold down the fortress of solitude, better known as Villa Methavrio. The dogs, cats and I will be carousing and living a high life for the next several weeks, and as a bonus we'll be keeping better notes in the blog!<br />
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~~~<br />
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ON another note, I am really amazed at how easy and free Skype is. It's a shame it took me so long. With next to no effort, and no cost at all, I've managed to have several conversations with the Belgian family, (keeping updated on my cousins wife's surgery that took place the day before yesterday) and I just finished catching a quick update with my best friend while I lived in Turkey many years ago. She's a brilliant painter now, currently living in Florida, and it was delightful to chat for a few minutes, albeit just as I'm about to go to bed and she's all perky, awake and organizing a party for today...<br />
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The greatest drawback is that I'm all self conscious I feel I look horrible on the small screen, and I feel very awkward at seeing what I look like when I'm talking to people. You can see yourself in a small corner of the screen and note what you look like during the call, and if you have any spinach on your teeth...<i> (note to self, give up spinach forever</i>.) I find myself sitting up straighter and trying to make my hair look better, a hopeless task. Mostly it makes me wonder what I look like to other people, like when I go to the store or something. (I also don't recognize my voice!) This whole process is a sort of good news/bad news thing.<br />
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Anyway.<br />
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So that's it for today. The puppies are telling me it's time to turn off the computer. (they're SO bossy.)<br />
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G'night all<br />
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<br />truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-54929084365391829902011-11-15T14:44:00.001+02:002011-11-15T17:44:37.319+02:00Ah that "thing in the middle"...This is the blog post I should have made last week! <br />
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Due to an unforeseen and totally annoying HUGE head cold (as rudely shared by passengers seated behind us in the airplane) T and I spent a miserable week (last) recovering and trying to sleep through most of it! (I am SO over air travel.)<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0545.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flanders on the way to beach</td></tr>
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T and I flew to Brussels for an long weekend last week (Depart Corfu 3 November; Return 7 November). It was long time overdue to catch up with my cousins and my 93 year old Aunt Marie-Louise, (my mother's elder and only sister). <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0562.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">along the brislam</td></tr>
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I also had a little "bit of my mother" that I wanted to leave in Belgium, preferably in the North Sea, which she loved, near her favorite childhood seaside resort, Blankenberge.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0547.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0547.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">iconic pier in Blankenberge</td></tr>
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Needless to say it was also a fine opportunity to savor Belgian cooking as well as catch up with the newest family addition baby Simon, born on the 29th of July while I was in the USA.<br />
<br />
We had a surprisingly good time, with many shared and funny memories of our childhoods - my cousin and me from our first meeting when I was 5 and he was 8, through all the years in between.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0557.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">me and my cousin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After my father died in 1959, I would fly to Belgium every summer after the school term ended and spend the three months of summer vacation living in the brownstone in Anderlecht with my Grandmother and Grandfather, while my aunt and uncle and cousin lived in the apartment upstairs and another great-aunt lived on the top floor apartment.<br />
<br />
My summer would pass spending my days waiting for my cousin, Ray to finish school so we could "play" (mostly we tried to understand eachother as I spent a great deal of time trying to figure out what everyone was saying- in French!), driving my grandmother crazy, and reading American novels left by my mother on previous trips, until I discovered the bookstore in the city that sold English books and blew through all my pocket money! <br />
<br />
ON the weekends, we'd all of us, go to the local cafe, to meet with friends and more distant family members,, and my cousin and I would play cards or as we got older, go to the movies. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0551.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0551.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">one of the three apartments I remember</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Some time over the weekend, usually Sunday, my aunt and uncle would take my cousin and me for an educational drive, to see the sights of Belgium, and of course have a good meal along the way! <br />
<br />
Always for the month of August the family would rent an apartment in Blankenberge and every day would be spent "taking the air" bathing in the sea, and enjoying the seaside atmosphere.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0570.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0570.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">lovely view to eat by!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In the great tradition of "all that came before", we had a great lunch in a super seaside restaurant built on the same (used to be a bit more humble) spot.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0572.JPG" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">oh the yum...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Of course we had to have fish and I had to have Sole Meuniere with Frites. <br />
<br />
T had cabillaud (fresh cod) with a marvelous and very traditional Belgian butter and cream sauce. (yes the arteries groan, but the taste is putting you at the gate of heaven!)<br />
<br />
After lunch we had to walk a bit and wandered to the opposite side of the beach away from the pier to the channel that goes to the port. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0581.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">no more fishing boats</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There were more childhood memories, of my cousin and I getting up early to meet the fishing boats and talking the fisherman into sharing a couple of freshly cooked crabs wrapped in newspapers. (they'd boil them in a big pot, right in the boat for their fisherman's breakfast!)<br />
<br />
Now there are almost no more fishing boats, just luxury yachts and power boats. <br />
<br />
Still lovely but not the same.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0585.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0585.JPG" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the cheeses</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0586.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the charcuterie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We came home to my cousins house, just in time to sit down for another, simpler, but amazingly delicious meal then went back (groaning) to our little hotel.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
We stayed at the quirky little Hotel Centrum in Beersel .<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0591.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0591.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the breakfast room</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0592.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the coffee tea corner</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
It's a very odd little place, but it was clean enough, the room was big and we had a small ensuite bathroom. Breakfast was OK and the coffee was freshly made and my tea was hot. Best of all, it was close (5 minutes!) to my cousins house.<br />
<br />
The rest of the weekend passed in a haze of exchanging wonderful memories, eating excellent food and all the while with a warm family all around. (Oh. And there was wine. I didn't talk about the wine and it was delicious and plentiful. Did I mention the wine? My liver is still recovering.)<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0587.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">taking in La Grand-Place</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0588.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0588.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taverne du Passage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We went into the city on Saturday, and shopped a bit and had a beer on the Grand Place then went on to a classic and favorite restaurant Taverne du Passage, in the Galeries Royales St Hubert.<br />
<br />
There we again ate and drank marvelously (but we were having such a good time I forgot to take pictures!) served by excellent and long time waiters. I had a simple Steak-Frites and it was amazing. T had a Sole, my cousins had Choucroute, an Alsatian dish of Sauerkraut, sausages and ham, made with a Belgian twist.<br />
<br />
Sunday we had a big family gathering and my cousin Maryse prepared a wonderful Carbonnade - a great Belgian Beef and Beer stew. (which I make several times every winter!) We finished it off with delicacies from the bakery... After which, I almost fell asleep in my coffee!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0590.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0590.JPG" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ray and Arsène</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0601.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my aunt and Simon (& me)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0610.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0610.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Benoit, Jenny and Melissa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0614.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeremy and Jenny</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0619.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0619.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Dessert</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0623.JPG" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wherein I almost fell asleep</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/brussels%2011-4,5,6/viewable/DSCN0624.JPG" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">saying au revior</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We flew out of Brussels at around noon and were home again in Corfu by 7 pm. <br />
<br />
Then we got sick and went to bed for a few days and didn't remember to call my granddaughter on her birthday on Tuesday. <br />
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Again, with the belated birthday greetings!!! Happy 23!<br />
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In the end, that's why this post is a week late! (clicking on the pictures should make them larger)<br />
<br />
So until the next peripatetic post... ta!<br />
<br />
<br />truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-23971232598363602492011-10-22T13:58:00.000+03:002011-10-22T13:58:33.939+03:00The return of the great pumpkin,...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/1%20carvin%20time.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/1%20carvin%20time.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Well, O.K. <br />
<br />
This year our pumpkins were not SO great, but we had a fun time anyway carving them and being silly with our favorite substitute grandchildren.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/17%20shh%20artist%20at%20work.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/17%20shh%20artist%20at%20work.JPG" width="150" /></a>Our friend, E, who now lives in Holland comes to visit family a couple of times a year. (we're extended family, particularly near Halloween!)<br />
<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/21%20finally%20demon%20perfect.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/21%20finally%20demon%20perfect.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
So T carved away, whilst the little ones designed their ideas and tweaked their finished product. <br />
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There was great concentration and much ooh-ing and ahh-ing for the finished results.<br />
<br />
I was not a participant as someone needed to document the proceedings...<br />
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<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/thumbs/12%20flower%20friends.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/thumbs/12%20flower%20friends.JPG" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/thumbs/13%20who%20knows.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/thumbs/13%20who%20knows.JPG" /></a><br />
[Meanwhile, Mr. Pumpkin Head is choosing to remain anonymous. ]<br />
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In spite of the weather periodically spitting and dripping on us, (there were bouts of sunshine as well) we all had a marvelous time. <br />
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<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/oops%201/thumbs/mamma%20pumpkin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/oops%201/thumbs/mamma%20pumpkin.jpg" /></a></div>
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<br />
The pumpkin family seemed content as well.<br />
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<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/16%20pumpkin%20family%20b.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/16%20pumpkin%20family%20b.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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We got a little carried away with "costumes" as we had brought a "bag O' animal noses" back from the States, for everyone to try on, which certainly helped the festive Halloween atmosphere.<br />
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<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/oops%201/viewable/ellianaphant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/oops%201/viewable/ellianaphant.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/26%20sweetie%20beast.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/26%20sweetie%20beast.JPG" width="200" /></a>There was much silliness and miming of animal behaviors....<br />
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and noises!<br />
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<br />
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<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/25%20menagerie%20mom.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/25%20menagerie%20mom.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/36%20growler%20sib.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/36%20growler%20sib.JPG" width="200" /></a>really cute faces all around<br />
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<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/38%20evil%20crock.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/38%20evil%20crock.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/24%20the%20eagle%20has%20landed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/24%20the%20eagle%20has%20landed.JPG" width="150" /></a></div>
Though as T mentioned, "An ornament finds its own tree"... <br />
<br />
(And yes, it WAS a bad hair day...) <br />
<a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/43%20ornaments%20find%20their%20own%20tree.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/pumpkins%2011/viewable/43%20ornaments%20find%20their%20own%20tree.JPG" width="200" /></a>truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-58133512992833763372011-10-15T22:45:00.000+03:002011-10-16T09:23:43.328+03:00And with the rain....<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
Comes the power cuts and electricity
challenges – as well as the odd disappearance of the DSL
connection!
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The day after my previous post, on a
bright sunny day, the power went off from 8 to 1 (ish) in the
afternoon! Supposedly they “fixed” all sorts of problems, and
our power was supposedly 'good to go'.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Then we had rain and lightening and thunder... </div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
~~~</div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/october%2011%20puppies/viewable/storm%20damage.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/october%2011%20puppies/viewable/storm%20damage.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">storm damage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Currently, we only have partial power-
1 phase of a 3 phase system- as a transformer near our house was hit
by lightening and sadly appears to be dangerously broken. I say
dangerously, because some of our neighbors (who are also with only
partial electricity) watched the shower of sparks arc all night long
from their living room window!
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Several neighbors have no electricity,
and one neighbor hasn't be affected at all. (I think out of spite we
may all descend on his house for dinner!)</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/october%2011%20puppies/viewable/a%20tiny%20problem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="188" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/october%2011%20puppies/viewable/a%20tiny%20problem.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a tiny problem</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I am sure soon, we'll have no
electricity “if” they decide to come and fix it as they will
probably have to shut it down to work on it.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
(Of course I say “IF” because when
one of the neighbors called to report the problem, he was told “there
IS no problem!”, in that charming Greek way, as they are wont to do
whenever “foreigners” call with problems. They usually presume
it is a minor problem of fuses that we apparently don't know how to
change or maybe even master fuses tripped and left unattended. We
now have a Greek friend calling to report the problem and hopefully
-eventually- someone will come out and see IF there is a problem. I
just hope it's before the general strike next Tuesday!!)</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/october%2011%20puppies/viewable/cozy%20in%20candlelight.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/october%2011%20puppies/viewable/cozy%20in%20candlelight.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">good thing the flue is clean</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Still we manage quite comfortably, and made our first roaring fire in the fireplace to cheer us up. </div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Meanwhile, the house is criss-crossed
with cables to provide electricity to the fridge and freezers as well
as jury rig a connection to the dryer so we can dry the “dog
towels” (the poor puppies NEED to go out and play in the rain and
MUST come in the house- soaked to the skin!- and sleep for a while).</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
~~~</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Which brings me round to what my post was
REALLY going to be about today...
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
In all the hectic craziness since our
return from Istanbul (see, NOW I'm going to tell you what really
happened between my post about our wonderful trip to Turkey, and my
time in Chicago!)I felt I should update you on some of the things that happened to make me not post...</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/viewable/Ballou.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/viewable/Ballou.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazing Balou</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Sadly, our great and wonderful Bernese
dog, Balou died in early April, from a malignant growth in her neck
that had become inoperable. We were devastated, and if it would have
only been me, I would have probably decided to never get a dog again,
as it hurts so badly when you lose them!
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
T on the other hand had been talking
for a couple of months, about getting another dog to keep Balou
company- a puppy this time,-and he had found what was purported to be
a Chow - German shepherd mix, he'd fallen in love with.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
So at the end of April, we went to pick
up what we thought was one 3 month old puppy.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/puppy%20baby%20pics/viewable/DSC06568.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/puppy%20baby%20pics/viewable/DSC06568.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">such sweet babies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Long story short, we ended up with TWO
puppies, because the second (and last) puppy would never have got
adopted as she was very timid and fearful and didn't look anything
like a shepherd.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I decided that it would be cruel to
leave her behind so... (how do these things happen??) we ended up
with two puppies.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
After we got them home, we realized
that they were great “medicine” for missing Balou, and they made
us laugh constantly, and were smart and wanted to try and learn from
and about us.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
We also discovered that they were a
bit older than advertised, by about an additional six weeks! The
Chow and the German Shepherd parents must have been small by all
standards as the pups are very much mid sized dogs.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Their names are Rosie and Ginger.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/october%2011%20puppies/viewable/DSC07051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/october%2011%20puppies/viewable/DSC07051.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rosie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Rosie is the intrepid one and has a
HUGE amount of energy (we refer to her as the “mad bee” when she
starts her flat eared sprints around the garden and us – and
Ginger). Rosie “looks” the part of watchdog, but she is very
friendly and will come to the fence and greet anyone. The dog has no
discrimination. She is fascinated by everything and never wants the
walks to end. She is totally motivated by food and can be trained to
do anything – with enough chicken on offer.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/october%2011%20puppies/viewable/ginger%20goof.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/october%2011%20puppies/viewable/ginger%20goof.JPG" width="172" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ginger</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Ginger is very stand-offish with
strangers and barks and growls and is pretty much a great watch dog.
She is at heart though, what could be termed a “couch potato”
dog. </div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
With us she's a big slob and will always slide from a sit to a
lie down if she can. She tolerates going for “walkies” but
mostly because it seems to please Rosie so much. She's not very
adaptable with strangers and hates when we have company. She does
things because she wants to or she feels sorry for us. She is NOT
motivated by food or treats.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/october%2011%20puppies/viewable/catwatching%203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://www.truestarr.com/photos/october%2011%20puppies/viewable/catwatching%203.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">holding paws while cat watching</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
They are completely devoted to
eachother and play fight, play hide and seek, doggie tag and of course tease eachother constantly. If one is
out of sight of the other they go “hunting” for the other one. </div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
They've completely settled in and even were silly and fun company when our first
houseguests of the year arrived mid May.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Sadly, right after our friends left
(around the 22 of May) I was thrust into the panic of my mother's
brain tumor and booking my flight to Chicago to be with my mother for
her surgery.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
When I returned in August, I was
worried that the puppies wouldn't remember me, or that they wouldn't
pay any attention to me, and I'd have to start from the beginning
with the basics. NOT SO! They greeted me like a long lost friend
and everything's gone swimmingly since I've been home!</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Three weeks after I returned from the
States, T flew back to the US to visit the boys and his brothers and
sisters and cousins. We'd originally planned to fly together for the
visit (it's been ages since we've traveled back to the US together,
just for fun!) but that was before my mother's problems, so we
adapted, and split our trips.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
T left and it was me alone with the
dogs... we had a great time together, and I needed to be alone in my
own space for a while. They were very sympathetic and gave me
cuddles when I needed them.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
They slept in their doggie beds in our
room at night and snored so I wouldn't miss T, too much.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
So finally it brings me round in an odd
way, to our "right now" life in Corfu.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Things change, and they remain the
same.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-18929875971046693282011-10-12T21:33:00.000+03:002011-10-13T15:46:34.085+03:00restart to blog, i think...<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://truestarr.com/photos/corfu%20oct%2011/viewable/screen%20pics.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://truestarr.com/photos/corfu%20oct%2011/viewable/screen%20pics.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the first raindrops fall, and suddenly the season changes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
All is well, and I think I have figured out how to post my pictures without too much trouble... If only I didn't have to LEARN so many new computer things, she says plaintively. (I keep repeating, "FileZilla is my friend".) <br />
<br />
Corfu is wonderful at this time of year. Well, it's lovely at any time of year, but this time is my favorite because the blistering heat seems to break overnight and the temperatures drop into the exceptionally pleasant range.<br />
<br />
Every day we have amazing sunrises and sunsets and glorious cloud formations that may or may not bring rain. Well they bring rain, it's just you never know where. This island seems to be a mass of micro climates!<br />
<br />
For instance, last week T called from the village on his way home to remind me to bring in the cushions from the veranda chairs as he got soaked while picking up bread at the bakery. It was bucketing down rain - three miles from the house! I was in gorgeous sunshine, and laughed when he told me to hurry. The rain never hit the house that day, it seemed we were a little mini island of "dry", as it just dropped its glory on everyone around us.<br />
<br />
~~~<br />
<br />
Meanwhile, on a more personal update: I'm alright. I'm starting to sleep regularly. I get sad at least once a day (sometimes I get really sad), but I'm managing to think about the good memories and the happy times, and of course I remember how much my mother loved Corfu as well. I'll probably mention how I feel once in a while, but mostly I guess, I'll still be writing about my life and times here on the island, or maybe about our travels.<br />
<br />
[If you are very lucky, I might even get around to finishing the picture story of our travels to Istanbul last winter! Yes, I know, lots of stuff to remember to do, SOooo many things to finish.]<br />
<br />
I'll probably be mentioning the pitfalls of the project I've taken on... I'm going through all my mother's photo albums and I'll be choosing, and trying to scan enough pictures of her life into a presentation for a memorial we'll be having with family, and my mother's special friends sometime in the Spring.<br />
<br />
Right now I'm just at the 'looking at pictures' phase, but I'm going to have to figure out what kind of computer program I will use to put together a nice slide show presentation. Sigh. My technology learning curve will be challenged yet again...<br />
<br />
It's nice to be back.<br />
<br />
<br />truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-53540259596666586532011-08-02T06:36:00.002+03:002011-08-02T06:36:39.929+03:00<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CcGw8W0Jrw0/TiLy5Z32JOI/AAAAAAAADOg/e7_7rAtijFQ/s1600/tom%2527s+camera+498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CcGw8W0Jrw0/TiLy5Z32JOI/AAAAAAAADOg/e7_7rAtijFQ/s400/tom%2527s+camera+498.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">setting off the seagulls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Yes, I'm still out here in the virtual nether world... couldn't find any words to write sooner though. <br />
<br />
Not everything has been horrible. Thank god my sons are there for me. They have all been amazing, taking different burdens from my shoulders.<br />
<br />
Rough week packing things up. Had a few "wobblies", that's what I call them. They're just those moments that blindside you and leave you gutted. <br />
<br />
Cleaning out drawers, going through closets. A lifetime in stuff. Hers and mine. (drawback of being an only child, with a slightly symbiotic parent-child relationship, I guess...)<br />
<br />
All the little "bits" that each hold a story that makes me smile and remember. Then finding an odd bit that can't be placed that has a story she hadn't had time to share... and wishing she could tell me the story.<br />
<br />
~~~~ <br />
<br />
Today, I needed to take a day "off". I realized that - pretty much since the 11th of June I've not had more than a few hours break from being with my mother. And the whole past week has been spent dealing with her stuff- yes, now my stuff.<br />
<br />
So. I went to the dentist, there to spend an hour getting my teeth cleaned and another hour and a half getting a few little things fixed. (one more 45 minute session to go...) Still not bad for not having been to a dentist for a few (5?)years.<br />
<br />
On the way out from the dentist I noticed a nice place to get a manicure/pedicure. I decided that between the multiple broken nails on both my hands and the callus on my heels, it was probably about time for a session. When I was finished I went to the grocery store next door and picked up the makings for a simple dinner. (I don't remember the last time I cooked a nice simple meal!)<br />
<br />
I stopped off on the way home and had a light lunch and when I got back to sainted middle son's apartment I managed to do a few things, put the food from the store away, get a big glass of water, pick up a magazine and sit down in the "comfy chair". I sat down and then promptly fell asleep in the chair for about an hour and a half. <br />
<br />
My next foray into excitement was to turn my computer on and play <a href="http://www.a2ztricks.com/angry-birds-game-online-free-download-for-pc-full-version.html">Angry Birds</a>- a game, of course, to which I've become addicted (along with farmville...)<br />
<br />
So now it's come to the end of my rather mindless day. (we had a lovely dinner, thank you)<br />
<br />
Tomorrow I will go back and sort through more things and get as organized as possible for an up coming trip to Michigan on Thursday. <br />
<br />
We (using the royal we, as sainted middle son will be driving the rental truck, loaded by he and organized youngest son) will take Oldest son gifts of a sofa, credenza, the desk, and desk chair, and a couple of other chairs and lamps. I will be driving backup car filled to the gills with other stuff, following rental truck so we have a way back home to Chicago...<br />
<br />
Interspersed in all this, sainted middle son's apartment will host houseguests while we are away, and so I will be interacting with new people as well. They arrive Wednesday I think. I will have to pack up my whole room so they can have a place to stay.<br />
<br />
~~~ <br />
<br />
It would seem that this little oasis of a "do-nothing" day was wisely chosen...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-40638393648319759692011-07-25T08:46:00.000+03:002011-07-25T08:46:18.953+03:00"The whole is more than the sum of all parts." Aristotle<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r7f3qE6216M/Ti0BvOMvhbI/AAAAAAAADSg/mLZ9VWh4pOY/s1600/Ricky+Hardie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r7f3qE6216M/Ti0BvOMvhbI/AAAAAAAADSg/mLZ9VWh4pOY/s320/Ricky+Hardie.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
HENRIETTE “RICKEY” HARDY, 86, of
Lincolnwood, IL, died Saturday, July 23 at Evanston Hospital, from
complications following surgery.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Rickey was born June 13, 1925, in
Brussels, Belgium, daughter of Henriette and Louis Breuer. She
studied art and design at the Institute de Beaux Arts in Brussels.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Rickey married Raymond Andrew Starr in
1947, who preceded her in death in 1959. They emigrated to Grand
Rapids, Michigan. Rickey was a successful Interior Designer in
Michigan from the 1950’s to the 1970’s.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XlhaiH-uKNk/Ti0Bw8O30gI/AAAAAAAADSk/NNOeY3WQXS4/s1600/mom+talking.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="188" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XlhaiH-uKNk/Ti0Bw8O30gI/AAAAAAAADSk/NNOeY3WQXS4/s320/mom+talking.jpg" width="320" /></a>In 1975 she married Kenneth Hardy and
moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico, which was to remain her home for the
next 35 years. Mr. Hardy died shortly after the move and Rickey
became part of the community in Santa Fe, managing several successful
art galleries.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WjxYGP3aemE/Ti0BuE1QLEI/AAAAAAAADSc/2CDOoHrY-Hg/s1600/Andrew+Rickey+SF+May+2011+close-up+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WjxYGP3aemE/Ti0BuE1QLEI/AAAAAAAADSc/2CDOoHrY-Hg/s200/Andrew+Rickey+SF+May+2011+close-up+2.jpg" width="165" /></a>Her partner of 25 years, Joseph Sommer,
died in 2006, and Rickey moved into Ponce de Leon retirement
community in Santa Fe and made many close friends there, until 2010,
when she moved to Lincolnwood Place in the Chicago area, to be nearer
to her family.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
She is survived by her daughter,
Jessica-Marie (Tom) Schafer; her grandsons Toby, Andrew, and Nick
Schafer; her sister Marie-Louise Dehou of Brussels; her nephew
Raymond (Maryse) Dehou; her great-grandchildren, Alexa, Cole, and
Gabriel; and legions of devoted and loving friends.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br />
In lieu of flowers, memorial donations
may be made to the Humane Society of the US, Dept MEMIT9, 2100 L St.
NW, Washington, DC 20037. Memorial services will be private.<br />
<br />
</div>
truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-89567260064930905222011-07-23T07:03:00.000+03:002011-07-23T07:03:16.356+03:00Family GatheringSon "number one", as my mother often charmingly referred to him, arrived today to sit by me and keep me company for the day by my mother's bedside. This afternoon, youngest son ("number 3") came and about and hour later middle son ("number 2") stepped into the room as well.<br />
<br />
<br />
We all visited with my mother. This mostly consisting of the normal repartee and banter back and forth between the brothers try to out charm each other (as they do) and get her attention, and then told her they were sweeping me off to dinner.<br />
<br />
At 6:30 I was taken off to <a href="http://www.tommynevinspubs.com/001/home.html">Tommy Nevins</a>, there, to enjoy a fine pint of Guinness and a Caesar Salad. As son number 3 had arrived with lovely Liz and grandson Gabriel, we made a party for a couple of hours.<br />
<br />
I returned to discover that no one had missed me and that mom had been carefully turned in her bed, received her medications and been properly looked after while I was away.<br />
<br />
~~~ <br />
<br />
Not much of a change today since yesterday, except that her temperature spiked a bit in the nighttime (up to 100.8) and her blood pressure dropped a bit (88/63) as well. Her gurgling continues though the nurses have been conscientiously suctioning out the build up of secretions in her throat when they become overwhelming.<br />
<br />
For the most part, during the day today, she went back down with the fever (to 99) and her blood pressure came back up (113/80). Everyone is amazed at her endurance, but she is coming to the end of her strength and of course also becoming prey to the infection that was running in her system from three weeks ago. <br />
<br />
Fixing the infection is not an option, at this point, and would go against her "do not resuscitate" orders. She specifically requested no further invasive procedures. <br />
<br />
~~~ <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0_06w1wKmZA/TioxEM-R6UI/AAAAAAAADRQ/gkjnBysPdBo/s1600/a+belgian+meal+with+belgians.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0_06w1wKmZA/TioxEM-R6UI/AAAAAAAADRQ/gkjnBysPdBo/s200/a+belgian+meal+with+belgians.jpg" width="176" /></a></div>
I found a picture of the two of us, that I really liked from last summer, after we moved her from Santa Fe to Chicago. It reminded me of another wonderful weekend night family party in a restaurant not far from here called <a href="http://hopleaf.com/">Hopleaf</a>. <br />
<br />
We chose it that night because it had Belgian specialties and we figured my mother would enjoy it (her being Belgian/American and all).<br />
<br />
As it was a loud, busy and packed venue, she got to do what she so often enjoyed doing, people watch. <br />
<br />
At some point while we were waiting for our table and the boys had gone to fetch us a beer, she said something to me like "Oh Honey, I think I'm the oldest person in this whole place!"<br />
<br />
I told her that as always she was really the same age as all these people, just trapped in an older body. <br />
<br />
<br />truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-62292069203269645062011-07-22T03:21:00.000+03:002011-07-22T03:21:27.854+03:00Not forgettingWhen you spend time as a patient in a hospital you stop becoming yourself. Instead you become a disease or a procedure. <br />
<br />
You walk around with a gown that opens in the back and wear socks with stickums on the bottom so you don't slip. It's a depersonalizing place usually. <br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2Wy2ITSlAm4/TiisirR7AjI/AAAAAAAADQI/i9mbXSstP4E/s1600/scan0088.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2Wy2ITSlAm4/TiisirR7AjI/AAAAAAAADQI/i9mbXSstP4E/s200/scan0088.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">mom and me 1949</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The Palliative care unit certainly tries hard to break thru that barrier, but you are in a hospital bed with catheters and IV drips and medicine you need to get at regularly scheduled times. <br />
<br />
Remembering who the person who occupies the bed really is not an easy task. (They've never seen you in real clothes!)<br />
<br />
The nurses here on this floor try very hard, as do the Nurse-assistants, the Residents and of course the Hospice staff. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WFLnVZJi4x4/Tiis8xJViEI/AAAAAAAADQQ/lqBRBhvVF3M/s1600/scan0165.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="191" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WFLnVZJi4x4/Tiis8xJViEI/AAAAAAAADQQ/lqBRBhvVF3M/s200/scan0165.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">playing doctor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But you're still in a hospital. <br />
<br />
The overflow of that hosptalized mentality hits me as well, as I am a part of what the Hospice people come to treat. I know that's not strictly true, but I feel so much like a bug on a petri dish sometimes.<br />
<br />
Sometimes I don't want to be "the grieving family member". Sometimes I'd like to be a crazy dancer or an ex-race car driver. Sometimes the sympathy is just too much. <br />
<br />
I am getting really tired of the phrase, "it's all right to cry". <br />
<br />
So. <br />
<br />
Today is a plateau day. My mother has stopped her descent and is in a holding pattern for a while with her blood pressure low but not yet dangerous, gurgling, but not choking, and finally she's been having a fever but it's not gone over 99 yet, so we all wait. I gave my sons the evening off from coming and looking solemn while at the same time feeling slightly ghoulish for not being able to interact with her. <br />
<br />
~~~<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9i7EA0VOQfE/Tiita3QKvYI/AAAAAAAADQY/9PBU5msNBPU/s1600/scan0256.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9i7EA0VOQfE/Tiita3QKvYI/AAAAAAAADQY/9PBU5msNBPU/s200/scan0256.jpg" width="176" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">we matched sort of</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1HmfniqQ_HI/TiiuAsKzOhI/AAAAAAAADQk/QCqi4xFAM7k/s1600/scan0299.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1HmfniqQ_HI/TiiuAsKzOhI/AAAAAAAADQk/QCqi4xFAM7k/s200/scan0299.jpg" width="139" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">after my dad died</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After my little outburst, of raging against the world, today I decided to go through some of my scanned old family pictures on my back up hard drive, and found some great mom and me shots.<br />
<br />
OK. I found LOTS of mom and me shots, but I figured I'd share a few of them, mostly for me to remember this person of so many facets who made me laugh at myself and at life. <br />
<br />
It was really nice having the pictures to look at, and I'm so glad I scanned them all into my computer 2 days before I flew to Santa Fe back in 2007 for her back surgery. <br />
<br />
Even as she lies on this hospital bed and snores and gurgles and sighs her "ohhhh's" she was someone completely different 6 weeks ago, someone closer to the interesting woman in these pictures.<br />
<br />
(Well, except for the snoring part...)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-57793176141932450882011-07-21T07:29:00.000+03:002011-07-21T07:29:02.073+03:00Rounding Corners<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vIHvPZyUS7w/Tiepev9d0mI/AAAAAAAADPs/DmsZtL0X3FU/s1600/DSC01773.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vIHvPZyUS7w/Tiepev9d0mI/AAAAAAAADPs/DmsZtL0X3FU/s320/DSC01773.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Still a slowly decreasing spiral of energy. <br />
<br />
My mother's blood pressure has been getting lower and lower all day, by small increments. <br />
<br />
The nurses are no longer giving her blood pressure regulating medicines, but they are now giving her medications to dry the fluids and secretions in her throat so she's not moaning. As she couldn't swallow she was making sounds to try and clear it.<br />
<br />
She's mostly unconscious now, and when she does surface she's looking through us to different place or time. <br />
<br />
I've made up the sofa again. Another night by her bed. <br />
<br />
Maybe the last night, maybe not. <br />
<br />
Middle son and youngest son came by for a few hours this afternoon. <br />
<br />
We clandestinely shared a bottle of wine (sadly she couldn't have any) and had a little "cocktail party" in the room with her. We laughed and remembered favorite stories that she loved. <br />
<br />
~~~ <br />
<br />
Today I was bombarded with odd snippets of travel memory, from places I'd lived and become familiar enough with to find my way around. My personal version "google maps", ah, the things you do when sitting quietly for hours on end... <br />
<br />
- Remembering the way and mentally going from my grandmother's house in Brussels - when I was 9 - to the bakery, to the greengrocers, to the butcher (we went to the one further away because his meat was better). <br />
<br />
- Wandering back again to my favorite Kro (restaurant) outside of Copenhagen where we lived in 1997, that my mother had so enjoyed, near Rungstead Kyst where T and I lived for a couple of years.<br />
<br />
- Taking a shortcut (in the late 70's) to the Plaza from my mother's second house in Santa Fe. <br />
<br />
- Making my way again to Kusadasi in Turkey (1994 -ish) where I met my mom and Joe on the cruise ship and took them on a tour of bird island and had a great lunch on the quai.<br />
<br />
- Figuring out getting around in Albuquerque in the spring of 2001 when my mother was hospitalized there for three weeks. Eventually it turned out to be a godsend when four years later, I had to know my way around as T needed eye surgery in Albuquerque and we spent the whole of the week between Christmas and New Year of 2004, going back and forth from the residence hotel to the hospital for follow up appointments.<br />
<br />
- Getting to work from the little cottage on the lake where my mother and I lived after I graduated from High School...<br />
<br />
So many more places and memories of my mother and I, like moving snapshots in a mental album.<br />
<br />
<br />truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-61555507727199321082011-07-20T08:34:00.003+03:002011-07-20T08:34:36.145+03:00In-between<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsN6F9QLTNOpAwZtTQklag9pdouem-wPwv4m0wk0K05XCihuJghu6mbHrCAMjxR2i42i0CMyKcyPSDLvia2JwYkDLzc5wkKGb0j6NY-PzLv4U-eCmjE6POXpGwKsJWvlm2iRQRAz8/s1600/gabriels%2527+b%2527day+022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsN6F9QLTNOpAwZtTQklag9pdouem-wPwv4m0wk0K05XCihuJghu6mbHrCAMjxR2i42i0CMyKcyPSDLvia2JwYkDLzc5wkKGb0j6NY-PzLv4U-eCmjE6POXpGwKsJWvlm2iRQRAz8/s320/gabriels%2527+b%2527day+022.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Changes are happening within my mother's body and her life force seems to be waning. <br />
<br />
She's tiring. <br />
<br />
Last night, she added a new symptom of moaning on her every outgoing breath- all night. Very disconcerting. It wasn't so much a pain moan as an "I'm tired moan". (I could agree with her as I didn't really sleep too much either.)<br />
<br />
All day today I've noticed her fatigue. She didn't open her eyes as often, and seemed to sleep more deeply today than usual. <br />
<br />
This evening her new symptoms include "wet breathing" which is a sort of gurgling sound that sounds like she should clear her throat or swallow, but according to the nurses, her swallow functions are not working too well anymore. They've suctioned out the spit that's accumulated several times, and given her some medicine but she still sounds a lot like a percolating coffee pot or a <a href="http://www.eperc.mcw.edu/fastFact/ff_109.htm">rattling noise</a>. Not a good sound. <br />
<br />
I am assured that it doesn't hurt. In fact it's harder on the person listening than it is on the the person going through it. Still it can be predictive that things are slowly shutting down. <br />
<br />
~~~<br />
<br />
Time is suspended while I am here, particularly as I have pretty much been living here for the last the last 18 days because though I have left the hospital for the odd afternoon or evening, I pretty much sleep and eat here. It's like being an expat in a foreign country.truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-84183818352798841232011-07-18T19:18:00.000+03:002011-07-18T19:18:09.960+03:00Space and Time<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7-wQr1o_Cnw/TiQ_AZilwOI/AAAAAAAADPA/MRihhnayWoQ/s1600/DSC06771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7-wQr1o_Cnw/TiQ_AZilwOI/AAAAAAAADPA/MRihhnayWoQ/s320/DSC06771.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I am currently thinking about my world of this hospital and the country of this room. As the days pass and I bring back changes of clothes, switch books, bring cards, and newspapers, the room fills with the personalized detritus of my existence in the corner of the room under the windows. <br />
<br />
When I am in the room, I look at the bed, and my mother, or I look out the window at the trees and roofs of buildings. At night, when I look out the window, I can see the lights in the windows of other rooms on the other wing of the hospital, with other people looking back out, just like me.<br />
<br />
When T was here we explored on foot the realms of the unknown, beyond the hospital and discovered Lake Michigan was a 5 block walk from the hospital. 6 blocks in the other direction we found a diner with real malted milk shakes and homemade hamburger patties.<br />
<br />
The temperature was mild and pleasant when T was here. Now he's departed, the weather has gone hot. Very. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://chicagoartcollector.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Evanston-Hospital3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://chicagoartcollector.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Evanston-Hospital3.jpg" width="249" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Credit: Steve Hall of Hedrich Blessing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Today it will feel like Mars, with a heat index of 109 F, so I'm doubting I'll walk outside. I'll walk instead, inside the hospital to get my exercise, today. It's huge, this building and feels a bit like one of the ancient Egyptian temples in Luxor.<br />
<br />
The <a href="http://chicagoartmachine.com/2011/01/25/the-water-wall-at-evanston-hospital/">hospital lobby is immense</a> (natural light - three stories high) and filled with the sound of a huge waterfall. <br />
<br />
There's a baby grand player piano that plays everything from classical to jazz and plays the acoustics of the hall very nicely.<br />
<br />
It sometimes feels more like a hotel lobby than a hospital. This feeling is fostered by the entry having a Concierge Desk, and Valet Parking. <br />
<br />
The one constant to remind you that you are in a hospital though, is the food.<br />
<br />
It is consistent and mediocre: a daily "hot lunch", high carb, everything slightly overcooked- as well as the alternate choice of a nice greasy grill with all the sandwiches prepared thereon and a deep fry with the french fries, onion rings and deep fried chicken bits to go along with it. Everything is topped off with a selection of sweets: brownies, cakes, pies, puddings ice cream bars, not from a bakery exactly, but sort of...<br />
<br />
There's also the standard pizza oven with the (of course) Chicago style pizza.<br />
<br />
~~~<br />
<br />
So. This is the beginning of the third week in this Palliative Care unit. I feel sometimes like it has been months.<br />
<br />
<br />
My mother still looks amazing, though she's thinner and seemingly more transparent than she has been to this point. Her skin is still lovely and unlined (how did she managed to avoid wrinkles?)<br />
<br />
When she opens her eyes, she sees past or through the nurses, but when she looks at me, there is a touch of her old expressions.<br />
<br />
For the last several days those expressions have been limited to "pathos" and, last night, an intense look she gave me when she was trying to cough and having some difficulty breathing. <br />
<br />
She doesn't talk anymore, though she sighs and on occasion moans, as if to say "Ohhhh." <br />
<br />
<br />It has occurred to me that this special unit of the hospital isn't just for my mother, but for me as well. They are very supportive and caring of me. They are treating me as if I was a part of the process. They hug me and bring me treats from their homes. (Carol brought me homemade trail mix; Helen snapped up a piece of pastry from the nurses station. Angie calls in to check on our status on her day off.) They all have time to talk with me and some of them share their own stories and personal losses. They are caregivers in the truest sense. They recognize my pain and they reach out to try and help.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
"Grief drives men into habits of serious reflection, sharpens the understanding, and softens the heart." John Adams<br />
<br />
<br />truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-73557727070973748582011-07-17T18:30:00.002+03:002011-07-17T18:30:30.240+03:00SundayA sometime religious feel on this day. A Catholic lay minister comes to give communion to my mother and myself. Her mouth is too dry to take the wafer, so we say an Our Father and a Hail Mary "with" her and I receive communion. (It's been a long time for me. I forget how dry the host is in my mouth, and how I wait for it to melt before I swallow...) <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eYu8DYpV8pM/TLMS95MhaUI/AAAAAAAADFc/EvP3sKgwVGY/s1600/DSC04855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eYu8DYpV8pM/TLMS95MhaUI/AAAAAAAADFc/EvP3sKgwVGY/s320/DSC04855.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corfu early morning sunlight on the acacia tree</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I used to do this Eucharistic ministry job for years when the boys were young. I went to the hospitals and nursing homes on Sundays after Mass and sometimes dragged the boys along. I know they would rather have been playing outside or watching TV or doing just about anything else.<br />
<br />
(Me too, honestly, but, then, during those years anyway- for me- it was a "God thing".)<br />
<br />
My kids went to Catholic school and we all went to church on Sundays for years. There was an order in our lives, a community around us for support, that was reassuring and neighborly. <br />
<br />
I hadn't really made the connection, but we rejoined and started participating in the whole church thing shortly after my mother remarried and moved from Michigan to New Mexico. <br />
<br />
I know that, for a while, even though I was 26, with a family of children and husband, I felt selfishly abandoned. (It had just been the "two of us" since I was 9!)<br />
<br />
The Church became a larger presence in my life after my father died. My mother had promised him she would raise me Catholic, and so the year after he died she put me in Marywood, a Catholic boarding school, as a weekly boarder I stayed in the dormitory with about 30 other girls. (I went home on the weekends, as my mother lived only about 20 minutes from the school) The Dominican nuns who ran the school gave me kindness, order and community after the loss of my dad (and of course, my mother as well, to the working world)<br />
<br />
~~~<br />
<br />
My mother wakes up at 6 this morning drenched with what I presume is a malfunction of the catheter. Instead I am told that it could be her urine is starting to concentrate, another stage of body changes prefiguring her coming closer to the end. Sometimes this concentration causes internal spasms and then malfunctions of the catheter. On the other hand, it could have slipped in the night and all could be back to normal and she could continue on like this "for a while".<br />
<br />
She gets an early bath and change of everything and then she calmly rolls over, on her favorite side to sleep deeply. The hospice nurse comes by to see how I'm doing and tell me that my mother's hands and feet are getting colder. (I think to myself, that my mother's hands and feet are ALWAYS cold. So are mine for that matter, as T tells me with great regularity!)<br />
<br />
She says it with a serious look to tell me that the end is coming sooner rather than later.<br />
<br />
The Eucharistic minister comes and goes in my mother's world with nary a flicker of her eyelid.<br />
We are still in the land of the unknown, suspended in time and space, waiting, waiting,<br />
Waiting. <br />
<br />
<br />truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-35931588572845577672011-07-17T06:42:00.001+03:002011-07-17T06:44:46.114+03:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZmxvYe9_8vg/TiDG7wiOhrI/AAAAAAAADOI/YkNMTDErRU8/s1600/gabriels%2527+b%2527day+035.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZmxvYe9_8vg/TiDG7wiOhrI/AAAAAAAADOI/YkNMTDErRU8/s320/gabriels%2527+b%2527day+035.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
For some reason the first part of this poem has been on my mind for most of the day. Maybe because it makes me smile and think of my mother in her heyday...<br />
<br />
<div id="head">
<a href="http://gawow.com/roethke/poems/122.html">I Knew a Woman</a> by Theodore Roethke</div>
<div id="head">
<br /></div>
<br />
I knew a woman, lovely in her bones,<br />
When small birds sighed, she would sigh back at them;<br />
Ah, when she moved, she moved more ways than one:<br />
The shapes a bright container can contain!<br />
Of her choice virtues only gods should speak,<br />
Or English poets who grew up on Greek<br />
(I'd have them sing in chorus, cheek to cheek.)<br />
<br />
... <br />
<br />
There's more to the poem, and I love it for all sorts of reasons, but that part just reminds me of her for some reason. <br />
<br />
~~~<br />
<br />
Today, started out a bit roughly for her, as she woke with a fair amount of discomfort. The nurses prompt attention to the pain meds helped a lot and made her comfortable. Of course I woke up with her and could only rub her back and gently brush her hair from her forehead. That terrible feeling of helplessness is not usually a great start to the day.<br />
<br />
With T gone back to Greece (well, still in transit this morning our time) middle son came for a fairly early breakfast (just after mom was settled down and comfortable) bearing fresh croissants. Discussions ebbed and flowed and gently touched on decisions for "afterwards".<br />
<br />
As per her wishes we needed to look into cremation- a subject fraught with landmines and potholes for the unwary or unprepared. We opted to go with the<a href="http://www.cremation-society.com/_mgxroot/page_10878.php"> place</a> that gave us the most information (and provided - on request- a detailed price list of optional services! They also broke down what the law required and what you could provide instead of their optional somewhat expensive products.)<br />
<br />
Still, in a cheerfully macabre sort of way, their motto "Think outside the box" did get an inadvertent chuckle out of me.<br />
<br />
Youngest son arrived shortly before noon and handed me the keys to the family car and told me to go do my laundry, take a long hot shower, have lunch and take a nap.<br />
<br />
So I went back to my mother's apartment and did my laundry, raided the freezer (Stouffer's is WA-ay better than the hospital cafeteria!) and had a delicious glass of pinot grigio that had been conveniently left in the fridge. I took my shower and managed a bit of a doze, though not a full scale nap, while waiting for the dryer to finish, instead of sleep, I opted to talk to my oldest son in Michigan, and then T in Greece just before he was going to collapse in bed after his long trip home. I also touched base with both other sons, so I felt well rounded.<br />
<br />
Of course, spending most of the day in my mother's apartment reminded me of her everywhere I looked. I had been living with her before she checked into the hospital, so all my stuff is still there.<br />
<br />
Still it was better to remember her tottering about in her apartment (forgetting her cane whenever she went from one room to the next), than to see her in the hospital bed every day.<br />
<br />
What can you do?<br />
<br />
I got back to the hospital at around 5:30 and felt refreshed and ready to continue on,<br />
<br />
as one must;<br />
as one does.<br />
<br />
<br />truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-85559429968386394702011-07-16T06:28:00.000+03:002011-07-16T06:28:21.670+03:00Someday I'll finish what I start...After so long a hiatus, I'm sure that if anyone is left reading this blog, they're wondering "what happened?!" and "where has this dratted woman disappeared to now!?"<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6gRQUkaSNO4/TiDEnZ2SBkI/AAAAAAAADNk/ixYgPtZ3KL8/s1600/gabriels%2527+b%2527day+018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6gRQUkaSNO4/TiDEnZ2SBkI/AAAAAAAADNk/ixYgPtZ3KL8/s400/gabriels%2527+b%2527day+018.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Michigan in the early morning</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
In a quick nutshell, I am back in the States, in Chicago, or rather, currently just outside of Chicago in Evanston Hospital. I am in the Palliative Care Unit with my mother, who, at her own pace, by her own choice, is letting go of "this mortal coil" and moving towards whatever may or may not happen on that "other side".<br />
<br />
She was diagnosed with a brain tumor at the beginning of June. The blasted thing was the size of a golf ball. It turned out it was cancerous. There was unfortunately another shadow on the MRI to tell us there was another tumor possibly forming.<br />
<br />
Something had to be done as she was suffering incredible horrible headaches, her memory was often affected with blanks and confusion, and she'd started to have balance and vision issues that included falling and cutting her head open.<br />
<br />
In the end, after a diagnosis was reached I flew to Chicago, and had a couple of weeks with her before the surgery was scheduled. The last week before the surgery, I was with her 24/7, as she had fallen, needed to be rescued by the Fire Department and have 7 stitches put in her head in the emergency room. Besides which she was constantly terrified as she'd become very wobbly on her feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
The neurosurgeon and his team operated, in<a href="http://www.northshore.org/locations/evanston-hospital/"> Evanston Hospital </a>on Friday, June 17 (four days after her 86 birthday which we celebrated with a party) and they successfully, and surprisingly removed the whole tumor.<br />
<br />
We were all hopeful until Monday morning the 20th when she had a mini-stroke behind her eyes. The surgeons went back in and inserted a stent to releave the pressure in her skull, and she remained in the Intensive Care Unit until June 30th when they removed the stent, and moved her to a regular room for 24 hours.<br />
<br />
With what seemed like a sudden move, they discharged her the next day to the rehabilitation facility within the Independent Living complex where she lives.<br />
<br />
24 hours later she was back in the hospital running a high fever, unconscious with an infection in her brain. This time she went from the ICU to the <a href="http://www.getpalliativecare.org/">Palliative Care</a> Unit within 48 hours. <br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KtvJqwZaZUk/TiDEnMTQxdI/AAAAAAAADNg/F_6G_2cRCpA/s1600/gabriels%2527+b%2527day+025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KtvJqwZaZUk/TiDEnMTQxdI/AAAAAAAADNg/F_6G_2cRCpA/s200/gabriels%2527+b%2527day+025.JPG" width="150" /></a></div>
<br />
She'd
made her wishes clear before the surgery (My mother signed a Do Not Resuscitate order, and she had made it abundantly clear, she was adamant that she'd didn't want further surgery or any "heroic" attempts at prolonging her life and we all honored her wishes.) <br />
<br />
Of
course we're gutted and the process is not simple, but we're all
managing - and I am in a good enough place to handle what comes next on
my own.<br />
<br />
The bottom line was finally stated by her amazing and very excellent neurosurgeon, when he came to visit her. He looked at me over her sleeping body and said "Sometimes it seems that we surgeons just want to save everyone, but sometimes we have to pause, stop and look at what the patient wants and needs. We can't lose sight of the person. She's an 86 year old woman with brain cancer. " <br />
<br />
When things started to go
pear shaped, everything was handled with a lot of respect, dignity and
kindness. As of yesterday we've all been receiving <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hospice">hospice support</a>. <br />
<br />
I am spending my days and nights here, at the hospital, sleeping in
Mom's room. And she is gradually moving towards her own endgame. <br />
<br />
T flew from Greece last weekend and we gathered around to bid her take her journey with our blessing and godspeed. T left today to return to Corfu.<br />
<br />
I am already missing him, and wishing for his strong quiet presence.<br />
<br />
Yet death and dying are very personal things, both to the person who is dying and to the friends and family affected. We all have to wrestle with our grief and our grieving, alone.<br />
<br />
I've not kept a journal up to this point, but I've decided to write a few of my thoughts down as I sit here in hopes that it might help someone else who has to travel this road. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sgur-QvhfKQ/TiDEncfI9_I/AAAAAAAADNo/M2rTRZO2D5U/s1600/gabriels%2527+b%2527day+032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sgur-QvhfKQ/TiDEncfI9_I/AAAAAAAADNo/M2rTRZO2D5U/s200/gabriels%2527+b%2527day+032.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
We all have to travel this path at one time or another, because we have, or will have to go through the loss of a dear someone who means something immense and special to us.<br />
<br />
There is so much to do and many things to think about, but for now, the sitting by the bedside and the waiting seem to be what fills my days. Quiet music plays. I've sprayed her favorite cologne on a soft floppy plush toy that seems to give her comfort as she hugs it to herself in her dreams.<br />
<br />
Sometimes she smiles, sometimes she furrows her brow. There is no way of knowing for sure if any of this makes any difference, but I talk to her quietly, and sometimes I rub her back or her forehead.<br />
<br />
I am in no man's land, waiting for my mother to die.<br />
<br />
truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-74637654127248274292011-03-23T22:34:00.002+02:002011-03-23T22:50:09.512+02:00Continuing on, though not exactly the next day.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5545921231_dba06d8877.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="111" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5545921231_dba06d8877.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
And so the last of Izmir and continuing on to Istanbul...<br />
<br />
[Sorry. I've stupidly done something to my arm/shoulder, and so typing has not been a priority the past few days. (Muscle spasm leading to pinched nerve... yes, ouch!) I think that the traveling has finally caught up with me, in a unique and sadly boomerang sort of way.]<br />
<br />
So, after our big day visiting Priene, Miletus and Didyma, we decided that instead of going to Sardis on Monday (which was also C's birthday) We'd spend the day in town, Izmir, and do a little shopping, have a bit of a wander (visit the central bank to change some old and now uncirculating Turkish money that the bank in the US had given to C&S!) and have a döner kebap in the market or Kemeraltı in town. We also decided to "do" some little laundries in the room and then pack for our Tuesday departure.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5546489576_011f80073e.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="112" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5546489576_011f80073e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">we took advantage of the beautiful day and sat at Konak Pier</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5022/5546488638_68e9b71aa5.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="113" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5022/5546488638_68e9b71aa5.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">watching the ships and ferry boats and enjoying the sun</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5295/5546490458_0108fab8c1.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="114"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5295/5546490458_0108fab8c1.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BPZ4zmbNJtk/TYpM99fOkQI/AAAAAAAADLY/5DWj3LHC3Ek/s1600/DSC05784.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="115" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BPZ4zmbNJtk/TYpM99fOkQI/AAAAAAAADLY/5DWj3LHC3Ek/s320/DSC05784.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iconic <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C4%B0zmir_Clock_Tower" linkindex="116">Izmir clock tower</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5094/5546491226_1e12cd5716.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="117" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5094/5546491226_1e12cd5716.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">choosing the best kebaps...</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5545911077_c7e0ce5be8.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="118" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5545911077_c7e0ce5be8.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and something to drink (fresh squeezed pomegranate, orange or carrot juice).</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5546500620_69caec9a78.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="119" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5546500620_69caec9a78.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">too many things to choose</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5545918289_a5a7f55910.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="120" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5545918289_a5a7f55910.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">too many things to see</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5091/5546498434_4a76752391.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="121" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5091/5546498434_4a76752391.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">always something new, something more.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5030/5545912001_3de4e703ef.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="122" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5030/5545912001_3de4e703ef.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">not far from the edge of the current bazaar- the agora of ancient Smyrna!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5546494210_152b549c49.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="123" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5546494210_152b549c49.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the birthday guy our last night at the hotel.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The next day was our anniversary, but it was also the best day to travel so we checked out and managed to find our way back to the airport. We were returning the car a bit early, but a kind young man outside the airport entrance offered to call the rental car people and within five minutes, they'd come to pick up the car.<br />
<br />
We were early, but we checked in with no problems and had a coffee and flew back to Istanbul (the flight is about the same time and distance as Corfu to Athens, 50 minutes.)<br />
<br />
We were met on time, at the Sabiha Gökçen Airport by the nice people from <a href="http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/go/Istanbul/Transport/bakpak_xfr.html" linkindex="124">Backpacker's Shuttle</a> and whisked away in a comfortable Mercedes van. The driver provided us with juice, water and little cakes (something our "no-frills" Pegasus flight didn't offer) so we had a nice ride back into town from the other direction, this time Asia to Europe.<br />
<br />
We'd arrived in Istanbul at about 1 in the afternoon so we assumed we'd get to the hotel by around 2. We arrived just slightly before 2, and the check in took no time at all. We had lovely rooms, very different from our previous hotel rooms as the <a href="http://www.ayasofyahotel.com/indexen.html" linkindex="125">Hotel Ayasofya</a> is an old historic house that has been converted into a charming boutique hotel.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5025/5545915387_c1b90d99fb.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="126" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5025/5545915387_c1b90d99fb.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">lovely lovely hotel Ayasofya</td></tr>
</tbody></table> Our room was small but perfect for our needs (the bathroom was tiny, but the shower had plenty of hot water) and we had a small desk a cupboard to hang our clothes and three windows with a little nook.<br />
<br />
It's located in a *real* neighborhood that was not too noisy (it was March) and seemed filled with mostly locals (ie: not much tourist traffic). The staff and owner were apparently well respected in the neighborhood, so I didn't feel vulnerable walking around at night. Once we became oriented to the Blue Mosque and the ancient Hippodrome, it became fairly easy to find our way back and around. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/5545914631_33b229cb92.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="127" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/5545914631_33b229cb92.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaye and a couple of her great employees.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Gaye Reeves and her team are very hands on in their management style. Any questions you ask are answered - and if they don't know, they find the answer for you!<br />
<br />
Our first question after we settled in, was where was the best place to go for our anniversary/birthday celebration dinner and without hesitation, she suggested <a href="http://www.hamdi.com.tr/sayfa.php?s=urunler&lang=en" linkindex="128">Hamdi Restaurant</a> which turned out to be perfect! Really wonderful food - Meze, raki and then kebabs. The restaurant was almost all filled with Turkish customers when we went. Gaye had made the reservations and we had a corner window table with a beautiful view of the twinkling lights of the city and beyond, over Golden Horn and Bosphorus.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hlO7S0LGSYo/TYpFXtAxX1I/AAAAAAAADJk/q0gSkIuXg5k/s1600/DSC05942.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="129" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hlO7S0LGSYo/TYpFXtAxX1I/AAAAAAAADJk/q0gSkIuXg5k/s320/DSC05942.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The restaurant is located across from the Galata Bridge, next to the Spice Bazaar. <br />
<br />
~~~<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2TeK2OIHfBI/TYpNDDvEWKI/AAAAAAAADLg/HOlew4zDjlM/s1600/DSC05893.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="130" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2TeK2OIHfBI/TYpNDDvEWKI/AAAAAAAADLg/HOlew4zDjlM/s320/DSC05893.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">walking up to<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hagia_Sophia" linkindex="131"> Hagia Sofia</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>But I suppose I should go back a bit. After we arrived, checked in and made our dinner reservations, we still had plenty of time to do some sightseeing. The first, of all the first sights to see, if for me anyway, is <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hagia_Sophia" linkindex="132">Agia Sofia</a> or the church of the Holy Wisdom. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ce8qu5vwQmY/TYpG-yfrfwI/AAAAAAAADKA/Qa8mkqcKtbo/s1600/DSC05801.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="133" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ce8qu5vwQmY/TYpG-yfrfwI/AAAAAAAADKA/Qa8mkqcKtbo/s320/DSC05801.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It always takes my breath away</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PdRB3dcj29Q/TYpHAY_aRoI/AAAAAAAADKM/Usk3qawC6_0/s1600/DSC05803.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="134" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PdRB3dcj29Q/TYpHAY_aRoI/AAAAAAAADKM/Usk3qawC6_0/s320/DSC05803.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">each time I return the restorations have progressed</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="background-color: transparent; border: medium none; color: black; overflow: hidden; text-align: left; text-decoration: none;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kVYQf1sJbg0/TYpHTSkReII/AAAAAAAADKU/TJKtkZU2KQA/s1600/DSC05806.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="135" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kVYQf1sJbg0/TYpHTSkReII/AAAAAAAADKU/TJKtkZU2KQA/s320/DSC05806.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">so many of the amazing mosaics uncovered</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="background-color: transparent; border: medium none; color: black; overflow: hidden; text-align: left; text-decoration: none;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RsxQS9VlAcQ/TYpHSC3UWJI/AAAAAAAADKQ/pizuftm3TfE/s1600/DSC05811.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="136" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RsxQS9VlAcQ/TYpHSC3UWJI/AAAAAAAADKQ/pizuftm3TfE/s320/DSC05811.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the beautiful details of its amazing history cleaned </td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="background-color: transparent; border: medium none; color: black; overflow: hidden; text-align: left; text-decoration: none;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-upxMz_DZXrM/TYpHVHtd7eI/AAAAAAAADLM/myLqssqQkZ4/s1600/DSC05818.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="137" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-upxMz_DZXrM/TYpHVHtd7eI/AAAAAAAADLM/myLqssqQkZ4/s320/DSC05818.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the stunning mosaic frescos uncovered everywhere</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div style="background-color: transparent; border: medium none; color: black; overflow: hidden; text-align: left; text-decoration: none;"></div><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aTPN_IJxH5c/TYpHnXGLh1I/AAAAAAAADKk/t9Vv-gxzSIc/s1600/DSC05847.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="138" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aTPN_IJxH5c/TYpHnXGLh1I/AAAAAAAADKk/t9Vv-gxzSIc/s320/DSC05847.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">even above doorways</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="background-color: transparent; border: medium none; color: black; overflow: hidden; text-align: left; text-decoration: none;">millions of people have prayed in this place and you can feel the great reverence. </div><div style="background-color: transparent; border: medium none; color: black; overflow: hidden; text-align: left; text-decoration: none;"></div><div style="background-color: transparent; border: medium none; color: black; overflow: hidden; text-align: left; text-decoration: none;">The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hagia_Sophia" linkindex="139">first and probably humbler Hagia Sofia</a> was built (probably) by Constantine before his death in 337. Fires and earthquakes contributed to it being rebuilt several times. The last and most familiar of these designs were by Isidore of Miletus under the direction of the Emperor Justinian.</div><br />
<blockquote><blockquote><div style="background-color: transparent; border: medium none; color: black; overflow: hidden; text-align: left; text-decoration: none;"><i>The emperor had material brought from all over the empire - such as Hellenistic columns from the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, large stones from quarries in porphyry from Egypt, green marble from Thessaly, black stone from the Bosporus region, and yellow stone from Syria. More than ten thousand people were employed. </i></div></blockquote></blockquote><br />
<blockquote><blockquote><div style="background-color: transparent; border: medium none; color: black; overflow: hidden; text-align: left; text-decoration: none;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hagia_Sophia" linkindex="140">Wikipedia</a></div></blockquote></blockquote><br />
From there we went a short walk across the tram tracks to the Yerebatan Sarnıcı (in Turkish that means "sunken palace") or the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_Cistern" linkindex="141">Basilica Cisterns</a>. This was build during the reign of Constantine,<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aAuU-dcxh64/TYpFqvnNFgI/AAAAAAAADJo/NQqal7BAPg0/s1600/DSC05873.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="142" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aAuU-dcxh64/TYpFqvnNFgI/AAAAAAAADJo/NQqal7BAPg0/s320/DSC05873.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">such a wonderfully eerie place</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XA--n8VMSRw/TYpFV-8riaI/AAAAAAAADJc/4FT4L8-NaGI/s1600/DSC05852.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="143" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XA--n8VMSRw/TYpFV-8riaI/AAAAAAAADJc/4FT4L8-NaGI/s320/DSC05852.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the first time I was ever in this place there was haunting classical music playing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<blockquote><blockquote><i>The name of this subterranean structure derives from a large public square on the First Hill of Constantinople, the Stoa Basilica, beneath which it was originally constructed. Before being converted to a cistern, a great Basilica stood in its place, built between the 3rd and 4th centuries during the Early Roman Age as a commercial, legal and artistic center. The basilica was reconstructed by Ilius after a fire in 476.</i></blockquote></blockquote><i><br />
</i><br />
<blockquote><blockquote><i>Ancient texts indicated that the basilica contained gardens, surrounded by a colonnade and facing Hagia Sophia According to ancient historians, Emperor Constantine constructed a structure which was later rebuilt and enlarged by Emperor Justinian after the Nika riots of 532, which devastated the city.</i></blockquote></blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><i> Historical texts claim that 7,000 slaves were involved in the construction of the cistern.</i></blockquote></blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><i>The enlarged cistern provided a water filtration system for the Great Palace of Constantinople and other buildings on the First Hill, and continued to provide water to the Topkapi Palace after the Ottoman conquest in 1453 and into modern times.</i></blockquote><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_Cistern" linkindex="144"> Wikipedia</a></blockquote><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zxYpy5V4Zbw/TYpFWgcxmtI/AAAAAAAADJg/3vw8pEr0f0Q/s1600/DSC05861.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="145" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zxYpy5V4Zbw/TYpFWgcxmtI/AAAAAAAADJg/3vw8pEr0f0Q/s320/DSC05861.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">one of the two great medusa heads that used to lie under the water</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZZWhWj5vHK4/TYpFsRAgFII/AAAAAAAADJw/CzSh06NDTr8/s1600/DSC05864.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="146" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZZWhWj5vHK4/TYpFsRAgFII/AAAAAAAADJw/CzSh06NDTr8/s320/DSC05864.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">they've protected them by taking them out of the water, but now they look a bit dorky.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iJdg-xxx10A/TYpFs-sa3WI/AAAAAAAADJ0/dJUuoan9CbE/s1600/DSC05878.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="147" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iJdg-xxx10A/TYpFs-sa3WI/AAAAAAAADJ0/dJUuoan9CbE/s320/DSC05878.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">after our sightseeing we stopped at a little place next to Hagia Sofia and had some tea and a bit of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hookah" linkindex="148">hubbly bubbly</a>!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B_IQNaiRKmQ/TYpH-XrOMbI/AAAAAAAADK4/vp1HRVFzl40/s1600/DSC05916.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="149" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B_IQNaiRKmQ/TYpH-XrOMbI/AAAAAAAADK4/vp1HRVFzl40/s320/DSC05916.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">from there we had time to visit the Blue Mosque</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ygNcl2ykUTw/TYpH6Vcj0NI/AAAAAAAADKs/eM1F89Xt8kE/s1600/DSC05903.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="150" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ygNcl2ykUTw/TYpH6Vcj0NI/AAAAAAAADKs/eM1F89Xt8kE/s320/DSC05903.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The soaring interior was created by the architect Sinan.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uXaC9osDK9s/TYpH7Ka7fCI/AAAAAAAADKw/er3AO9T7rk4/s1600/DSC05911.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="151" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uXaC9osDK9s/TYpH7Ka7fCI/AAAAAAAADKw/er3AO9T7rk4/s320/DSC05911.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">looking back through the archway to see Hagia Sofia</td></tr>
</tbody></table> Finally we walked back to our hotel to get ready for dinner. We passed the ancient <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hippodrome_of_Constantinople" linkindex="152">Hippodrome</a> along the side of the Blue Mosque. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rtXhYSz8wmQ/TYpIMm5AupI/AAAAAAAADK8/98VXa_gx2xg/s1600/DSC05920.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="153" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rtXhYSz8wmQ/TYpIMm5AupI/AAAAAAAADK8/98VXa_gx2xg/s320/DSC05920.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><h3><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Obelisk_of_Theodosius" linkindex="154"><span class="mw-headline" id="Obelisk_of_Thutmose_III">Obelisk of Thutmose III</span></a></h3></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nTIHpCHeuBU/TYpIRAjuj5I/AAAAAAAADLE/eRox4Ue8Hdk/s1600/DSC05922.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="155" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nTIHpCHeuBU/TYpIRAjuj5I/AAAAAAAADLE/eRox4Ue8Hdk/s320/DSC05922.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serpent_Column" linkindex="156">The Serpentine Column</a> (with new paving stones!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9iI54gQ10-E/TYpIRIqhqRI/AAAAAAAADLA/fWP-fuxbx6M/s1600/DSC05937.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="157" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9iI54gQ10-E/TYpIRIqhqRI/AAAAAAAADLA/fWP-fuxbx6M/s320/DSC05937.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">finally made our way back to the hotel.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We rested for about an hour and then took a taxi to the restaurant. A really amazing day. And as we left the warmth of the restaurant - waiting for our cab, we looked back and noticed someone else having a pleasant end to the day:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zGMXks1_v8o/TYpG_NRQV9I/AAAAAAAADKE/wJ9i8tStjkY/s1600/DSC05943.JPG" imageanchor="1" linkindex="158" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zGMXks1_v8o/TYpG_NRQV9I/AAAAAAAADKE/wJ9i8tStjkY/s320/DSC05943.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Next post will be Topkapi and the archaeological museum (another BIG day!)truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-78484794230748434292011-03-19T22:22:00.002+02:002011-03-19T22:26:53.354+02:00Nothing like us ever was...Traveling through time and climbing over ancient ruins always brings me back to a poem I learned years ago (no, really!! 48 years ago!) I don't remember it all anymore but certain poetic phrases still stick. It was called <a href="http://www.americanpoems.com/poets/carlsandburg/12944" linkindex="74">Four Preludes on Playthings of the Wind</a> and the point it made to me anyway was that whatever we build and however amazing we think we are, doesn't last as long as time.<br />
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Still I have to say that the three ancient cities we visited, Priene, Miletus and Didyma are really spectacular ruins!<br />
~~~<br />
<br />
We left Izmir, with good driving advice from our friends from dinner the evening before, and we up and out early Sunday morning with hopes of seeing all the sights and getting back in good time to put our feet up a bit before dinner.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5522699076_9c5064d6b0.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="75" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5522699076_9c5064d6b0.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">classic columns</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Our first stop was <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Priene" linkindex="76">Priene </a>(and the new highway really did make a difference in the time it took to get there!).<br />
<br />
We were actually very surprised that there were as many people at the site. I had been there many times in all the different seasons and I had never seen it as busy! There were about three tour buses worth of people, German, French and Turkish.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5093/5522700234_75eaa8f41a.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="77" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5093/5522700234_75eaa8f41a.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">once the view was water</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I'm guessing that it was a pleasant Sunday excursion trip by bus (since it was a very nice excursion for just the four of us. The weather was finally co-operating and it warmed up pleasantly.<br />
<br />
It is such a peaceful spot, and the city is what I always think of as human scale, which just means that I don't find it to overwhelming, but can actually visualize people going about their day to day business there. Well, once they climb up to it. (It seems to have been very well defended and tho it had three ports at one time, it doesn't seem to have been a frequent target in wars or takeovers AND it's sort of vertical).<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5522111417_9d741522ca.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="78" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5522111417_9d741522ca.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">bouleuterion</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
One of my favorite spots in Priene, is this nice little 'city council' building or <a href="http://www.turkishclass.com/picture_18967" linkindex="79">Bouleuterion</a>. it's dated to the 2nd century B.C. <br />
<br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;">"... one of the best preserved examples of an ancient bouleuterion. ... it was surrounded by tiers of seats accommodating 640 citizens. In the centre stood an altar with a decoration of bulls´ heads and laurel leaves... The speakers addressed the meeting from a podium carved in the south wall between the two entrances." </span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></i><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5522702404_1fd71a7c85.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="80" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5522702404_1fd71a7c85.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Unless of course someone unforseen shows up and needs to say something "from the heart"... (or perhaps something he memorized for a forensic competition a gazillion years ago...) <br />
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Deciding to leave (unfortunately about the same time as several buses) We drove back to the main road down from Priene, and followed the signs to Miletus.<br />
<br />
The ground is cultivated for farming (predominantly cotton, I think) but in the winter is very much wetlands. It's very rich land as it's all based on the silt of the Meander/Menderes River We saw a lot of birds. I remember once, years ago, seeing three or four varieties of herons and egrets.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5522713812_d536224362.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="81" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5522713812_d536224362.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">theater in the afternoon winter sunlight</td></tr>
</tbody></table><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miletus" linkindex="82">Miletus</a> was a sprawling huge city. It was one of the 12 Ionian cities of Asia Minor in it's heyday. But its origins go back to Neolithic times. One of its claims to fame, it rebelled against the Hittite Empire in the late 13 century BC! By 1000 BC it's was comfortably being settled by Greeks during the Greek Archaic Period.<br />
<br />
Being a city on the mouth of a river had advantages and disadvantages. Eventually by the 14 century AD, the silting of its ports became what really ended it's great history.<br />
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Still the thing to see here is the <a href="http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/go/Aegean/Ephesus/prien_milet_didim/miletus.html" linkindex="83">great roman theater</a>... <br />
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Except because of all the tour buses disgorging at about the same time, and entering the theater, just as those ancient crowds, I decided we'd go up the right side next to the theater and visit the Baths of Faustina first.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5522704822_4a2f1cd527.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="84" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5522704822_4a2f1cd527.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a few people but not crowds</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5522736748_182fd0c292.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="85" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5522736748_182fd0c292.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">one of the pools with a copy of the statue of Dionysus (the original is in the Izmir archaeological museum)</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5522115737_96af9e5053.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="86" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5522115737_96af9e5053.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baths were quite extensive and included a gymnasium</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5522148755_c436a48dda.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="87" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5522148755_c436a48dda.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">one of the many tour groups catch up with us in the baths</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5522116821_19678b1c05.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="88" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5522116821_19678b1c05.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">moving out towards the theater passing a lot more excavation of the baths</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5522118015_45b9a66418.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="89" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5522118015_45b9a66418.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and it continues! (of course this is the high ground... everything else is underwater!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5522709078_7d1a92a3ff.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="90" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5522709078_7d1a92a3ff.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">one of the MANY entrances and exits to the theater</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5522120523_b2fce8d295.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="91" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5522120523_b2fce8d295.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ah, where to sit...</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5522121945_f48bb188b7.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="92" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5257/5522121945_f48bb188b7.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">well organized to get people in and out- the tiers are very well defined.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5059/5522712726_2884c657a6.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="93" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5059/5522712726_2884c657a6.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">obviously this was the good seat area. the seats are wider!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
We crawled all over the theater and marveled at how similar the construction is to modern day amphitheaters. Then it was time for the last leg of our journey, Didyma. It's not really too far from <a href="http://www.sacred-destinations.com/turkey/miletus" linkindex="94">Miletus </a>and at one time the two places were connected by the Sacred Way, which of course is underwater in Miletus, so I don't have a picture of it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5522125205_1d60d47506.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="95" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5522125205_1d60d47506.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple of the Oracles at Didyma</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5522716434_1e48348a98.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="96" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/5522716434_1e48348a98.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">an enormous building.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5522717642_2b047083e3.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="97" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5522717642_2b047083e3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside the temple (sacred spring in center of temple)</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.didimestate.com/didim/dalyan_pano4.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="98" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="177" src="http://www.didimestate.com/didim/dalyan_pano4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">what the temple probably looked like</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5522128747_58c44173ef.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="99" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5522128747_58c44173ef.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the oracle brothers?</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5522129823_1b1098a7a4.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="100" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5522129823_1b1098a7a4.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">passages on either side to enter the central temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5522130943_da35359bdc.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="101" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5522130943_da35359bdc.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">massive pillars</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5136/5522150505_be07768f63.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="102" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5136/5522150505_be07768f63.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">so many pieces left to put back together</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5522721782_212a352dc5.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="103" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5522721782_212a352dc5.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">classical medusa head (probably from the architrave inside the temples)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<br />
Which of course is a perfect spot to finish for now, as we ended our tour in a little tea house across the road from the temple and sat for a few minutes and had something to drink while contemplating the building across the way, before we loaded ourselves back into the car for a comfortable ride back to the hotel in Balçova.<br />
<br />
We got back in good time to have a little rest, dinner and a splash in the wonderful pool and jacuzzi. All in all, a wonderful day.<br />
<br />
Tomorrow I'll wrap up Izmir and send us back to Istanbul for the final week of giddy excitement (and photographs).truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-32896608630814816772011-03-15T22:22:00.002+02:002011-03-16T14:12:19.200+02:00Edging out happier thoughts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRZX4INQNgqQrW2MoHWnSg4wdqBQmx6Yvu7SiNzNXJYZHbjHErz" imageanchor="1" linkindex="23" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRZX4INQNgqQrW2MoHWnSg4wdqBQmx6Yvu7SiNzNXJYZHbjHErz" /></a></div><br />
The devastation in Japan has started to seep into all my thoughts. <br />
<br />
I will continue to write about our trip to Turkey and to post the pictures, but not today. For me, right now, it feels like bad timing.<br />
<br />
I know have no control over natural forces. I know that my having a happy life vs some Japanese person having a life suddenly torn from all familiar moorings and family and friends is not my doing. But for what it's worth, I am thinking about all those people who survived, and looking at the pictures (tho not so much tv as that is suddenly too much) and I am empathizing with them..<br />
<br />
To imagine the force of a 9.1 earthquake, followed by a 30 foot wall of water tsunami that in some places went 10 kilometers (6 miles) inland, laying waste to everything in that wall of water's path is incredible.<br />
<br />
Contemplating the fact that Japan appears to have moved 2.4 meters (8 feet) and the earth has shifted on its axis, is like thinking that a science fiction story is really true.<br />
<br />
Anyway, my thoughts tonight are with Japan, the people, and the pets and domestic and wild animals affected- both the dead and those that survived.<br />
<br />
I'm thinking of the pieces of history gone forever, and the potential meltdown situations with their nuclear reactors (someday becoming future history).<br />
<br />
And I am thinking about what I would do, how I would feel if I were in their place. <br />
<br />
We're really such a fragile web of life on this planet. And there appears to be no guarantees. I'll end this post with an <a href="http://www.online-literature.com/donne/409/" linkindex="24">excerpt</a> from a sermon that has been riding with me all day:<br />
<blockquote><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;">No man is an island, entire of itself; every man is a piece of the continent, a part of the main. If a clod be washed away by the sea, Europe is the less, as well as if a promontory were, as well as if a manor of thy friend's or of thine own were: any man's death diminishes me, because I am involved in mankind, and therefore never send to know for whom the bells tolls; it tolls for thee.</span> </span></i></blockquote><br />
<blockquote><span style="font-size: x-small;">Meditation XVI- John Donne</span></blockquote><br />
<br />
<blockquote><br />
</blockquote>truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-25496423078540594852011-03-13T22:09:00.001+02:002011-03-13T22:14:48.711+02:00Freezing in Pergamom<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/1/15/Drawing_of_ancient_Pergamon.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="84" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/1/15/Drawing_of_ancient_Pergamon.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">how we wished we could have seen Pergamom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>So. Having departed from the "Itinerary" and gone to Ephesus two days earlier than planned, we woke up with a determination to figure out the highway system around Izmir and drive to see <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pergamon" linkindex="85">Pergamom</a>. With our trusty maps in hand, we set off for the reception desk, and a nice young man printed out another map from the internet to show us the "simple" way to get there.<br />
<br />
We were to follow the signs to Karşıyaka, Bornova, Menemen, Aliağa, and finally Bergama - which sounded straightforward. We went off assuming we'd just follow the signs with any or all of these words on it and we'd be fine.<br />
<br />
Except after Bornova, no signs used any of those words.<br />
<br />
It took me a while to finally figure out, from the backseat after frantically looking at the large map that what we needed to do was go in the direction of "Çanakkale"... meaning Çanakkale the province.... (at this point we had turned around once in Bornova and were back on the road of what we thought as "on our way" only to have the highway suddenly dwindle to nothing in the midst of signage that said we were welcomed into a brand new bird sanctuary!<br />
<br />
We turned around again, and I suggested we lookout for the signs to <b>Çanakkale</b> which meant nothing to anyone, but it ended up working just fine and soon we were on our way, passing signs directing us to all the other names on our list til finally we'd arrived into the outskirts of Begama.<br />
<br />
Ideally you are meant to visit the <a href="http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/go/Aegean/Bergama/sites/acropolis.html" linkindex="86">Acropolis</a> first, then the <a href="http://www.sacred-destinations.com/turkey/bergama-asklepion.htm" linkindex="87">Asklepion</a>, and finally the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Red_Basilica_plan.svg" linkindex="88">Red Basilica</a>, more accurately known as the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serapeum" linkindex="89">Temple of Serapis </a>(an Egyptian god). But we ended up doing the tour completely back to front. In the windy icy cold! Still we were so pleased we'd found it that we jumped out of the car and into our view of the Asklepion.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5099/5522091905_d043f43bef.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="90" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5099/5522091905_d043f43bef.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="http://www.aboutkusadasi.com/historical/pergamum.html" linkindex="91">Pergamum</a> had the fame to be the first city who showed reaction to the functional urbanism of Hippodamus as they preferred ornamental urbanism. Acropolis buildings were built and designed with the aim of impressing the ones viewing the city from the valley.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5019/5522092949_a7bb902941.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="92" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5019/5522092949_a7bb902941.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
We were in the valley below. Even the ruins were impressive!<br />
<br />
Pergamon's <a href="http://www.sacred-destinations.com/turkey/bergama-asklepion.htm" linkindex="93">Asclepion</a> translates as 'place of Aesklepios', the son of Apollo and the god of healing and health, and was an important health center in Greco-Roman times. Among the types of therapy practiced here were mud baths, sports, theatre, psychotherapy and use of medicinal waters.<br />
<br />
We walked through the whole of the Asklepion, down below and onto the Sacred Way. (now i'll just post some pics with captions...)<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5136/5522085063_d500839d2b.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="94" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5136/5522085063_d500839d2b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sacred Way</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5522086091_216fb5d4cd.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="95" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5522086091_216fb5d4cd.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roman theater</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5255/5522091063_7f6b3eae0e.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="96" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5255/5522091063_7f6b3eae0e.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">theater closer (nice human sized space)</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5522676724_b3d205d58e.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="97" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5522676724_b3d205d58e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">entrance to the underground passageway</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5295/5522088103_1fabd01400.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="98" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5295/5522088103_1fabd01400.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">entrance to eventually get to the treatment rooms</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5215/5522089105_26f4a46f5e.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="99" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5215/5522089105_26f4a46f5e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a really long and slightly Freudian walk</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5522679972_dddd12f5b8.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="100" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5522679972_dddd12f5b8.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">one of the three still flowing fountains from the sacred spring</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5092/5522723470_7158e2ec31.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="101" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5092/5522723470_7158e2ec31.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">dear C taking the sacred (and still slightly radioactive) waters</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Then it was onward to the Red Basilica or the Temple of Serapis. It was HUGE and loomed over the old part of the city where it was trapped by fences. In it's heyday it had a huge entryway road and land that extended far beyond the temple itself. (More pictures)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5522098251_6a2e84da5e.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="102" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5522098251_6a2e84da5e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was still pretty cold and windy so there weren't very many people around</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5522683712_28f03126b1.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="103" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5522683712_28f03126b1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">one of the two towers we could explore</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5522727970_d6959e33d4.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="104" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5522727970_d6959e33d4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the other tower in use by the archaeologists </td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5139/5522684764_0d433cedde.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="105" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5139/5522684764_0d433cedde.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5522096077_2dfe519875.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="106" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5522096077_2dfe519875.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and looking up!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Then we found the road to get to the Acropolis. It was right next to the funicular! I remembered the road being very steep and narrow with no guard rails of any kind, but I'd not really thought about T having to drive up AND back down again. (I'd done the palm sweating exercise a couple of times, but I don't have a fear of heights!) Still at least there were a few new guard rails and the road had been fixed of most of the holes I remembered! Still the poor guy held on really well, but at one point I got out of the car and walked ahead to make sure it was "go-able"! He did make it both up and back down again, but he suffered! Ironically we none of us remembered to take pictures of the blasted road up!!<br />
<br />
So there we were at the top of what felt like the world and it was so cold and windy it brought tears to our eyes. (again with the pictures...)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5522690314_43b02e297a.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="107" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5522690314_43b02e297a.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">on top of the world</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5015/5522099529_1361f6a6df.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="108" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5015/5522099529_1361f6a6df.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">dramatic theater sat 10,000 people</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/5522732272_301711c07c.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="109" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/5522732272_301711c07c.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">standing on what remains of Temple of Athena (not much)</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5296/5522693550_43cb52eb98.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="110" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5296/5522693550_43cb52eb98.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple of Dionysus and the theater terrace</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5522694760_c94cfdb5a8.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="111" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5522694760_c94cfdb5a8.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">what's left of the Great Altar of Zeus (that's not in the Berlin museum)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5522729360_f3eeb35432.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="112" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5522729360_f3eeb35432.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple of Trajan</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/5522692432_d8b6d0d152.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="113" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/5522692432_d8b6d0d152.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">more bits of Trajan's temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5522141277_8ab4956d28.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="114" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5522141277_8ab4956d28.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">details of Roman Corinthian capitals</td></tr>
</tbody></table>as an FYI, this is what the reconstruction in Berlin, of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pergamon_Altar" linkindex="115">great altar of Zeus</a> looks like:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://media.web.britannica.com/eb-media/68/3968-004-73DBD497.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="116" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="http://media.web.britannica.com/eb-media/68/3968-004-73DBD497.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
So that's our day in Pergamon. The ride home (once we got down from the Acropolis) was fairly unevenful. We got back with time enough to freshen up a bit and join some more special friends (and ex neighbors!) for dinner in Güzelbahçe near where we used to live. We had such a lovely evening - and we ate the most incredible seafood!! Stuffed mussels, fresh greens, lightly battered calamari, and shrimps (etc) then for the main course a simple grilled sea bass with chips (french fries) on the side.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5212/5522697960_49b7ef6d84.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="117" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5212/5522697960_49b7ef6d84.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">dear friends</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5012/5522695840_a71e30c007.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="118" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5012/5522695840_a71e30c007.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">beautiful starters</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5051/5522107239_ec55f533b0.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="119" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5051/5522107239_ec55f533b0.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the main event!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>For dessert we had baked halva (it turns into a sort of custardly sticky creamy thing that's slightly caramelized on top... anyway, excellent. With out fish meal we managed to kill off a lovely bottle of Yeni Rakı Yeni Seri.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
All in all a lovely day and a great evening. We got back to the hotel late, but not bad and we all slept quite soundly and woke up for breakfast at 8.<br />
<br />
We hit the road at 9 and acted like we knew what we were doing.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I almost feel like I'm reliving the entire vacation in real time all over again! So. It's just past 10 and I'm done for today. Tomorrow I may or may not post Priene, Miletus and Didyma. [I'll give it a try, but it may be a Tuesday post... I have to get groceries SOME time.]<br />
<br />
<br />
I hope you are enjoying this as much as we did when we all took the trip. Thanks for reading it.truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-49867207857026333692011-03-13T01:56:00.000+02:002011-03-13T01:56:22.520+02:00The Aegean coast beckons, and we arrive<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5520036354_20a27d53a9.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="264" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5520036354_20a27d53a9.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clock tower in the central square Izmir</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
We were met for our journey to Istanbul's <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ku%C5%9Fadas%C4%B1" linkindex="265">Sabiha Gökçen International Airport</a>, at 9 AM by a dignified driver dressed in a suit from the private shuttle service <a href="http://www.backpackerstravel.net/index.php?pid=20&id=43" linkindex="266">Backpacker's Travel Service</a>. <br />
<br />
For the four of us and all our luggage it was a bargain 50 euros or 105 TL (plus small added gratuity) the ride took over an hour and it was nightmare traffic all the way, particularly crossing the Bosphorus Bridge to get to the Asian side of Turkey. The driver was quiet and a very patient. (He even had a small fridge in the front, offering us cold bottles of water for us to drink midway on the journey!)<br />
<br />
We got to the airport in plenty of time to check in for our flight, have a glass of çay, and make our leisurely way to the gate.<br />
<br />
I had struggled with the options of getting us all to the airport. I looked into bus or train or boat and even considered taxis. In some instances (example:public transportation) some alternatives were much cheaper. But it felt a little like we'd be herding cats, and I remembered we were all "on vacation". <br />
<br />
The ease of booking the Backpacker people online (and their quick response), was what convinced me to go this route. (we COULD have schlepped the luggage ourselves and made it happen for less, but there's enough stress in travel now a days and this seemed like a perfect solution). <i>I include this diversion for any who may be considering travel to Istanbul and wonder at "the thing in the middle" ie: "airport....?.... hotel". If you are feeling intrepid there are many options, but lately, as I get older and have tried all the options, I find myself shepherding my resources...a little bit like "picking your [travel] battles".</i><br />
<br />
The<a href="http://www.sgairport.com/havaalani/eng/start.asp" linkindex="267"> Sabiha Gökçen International Airport</a> is very new, only built in the last 5 or 6 years and is really lovely. <br />
<br />
We flew on Pegasus airlines, (they have a rather charming URL: www.flypgs.com which always making me smile and think of pigs flying, instead of a flying horse) I made all the arrangements online and printed out the tickets. When we checked in with the print outs, there were no problems. We were assigned excellent seats at check in and boarded painlessly. <i>Well except for the slight moment of "duh" when we got into the wrong line and waited to go through passport control. When we got to the desk we were turned away. It was after all a DOMESTIC flight. sigh</i>.<br />
<br />
We arrived in Izmir to sunny skies and part of a familiar airport. The old international "terminal" was now the domestic terminal and it looked out onto a HUGE new building that apparently was now for International arrivals.<br />
<br />
We were met by the representative of <a href="http://www.elitcarrental.com/?hl=2&gcs=13" linkindex="268">Elit Car Rental</a>. 28 euro/day, everything included! (Full Insurance, Unlimited Mileage, Insurance for Tires, Headlights, Windscreen, Theft Insurance, Airport Delivery, V.A.T, Second Driver, 24 hours road service, and Theft insurance with NO excess!)<br />
<br />
It was the best price I'd found on the internet for the sized car I was looking for. <br />
<br />
I did have misgivings though as when I called no one spoke any English, except finally a young girl who told me everything would be alright and just fill out the form on the internet page. (I emailed a Turkish friend and asked her to call and talk to them in Turkish and give me her opinion, and she confirmed that they were actually all right, just short on English speakers as it was the off-season) I rented a Fiat Doblo Diesel (seats five and has room for five huge suitcases) and that's what the rep had brought to the airport. Clean and basic.<br />
<br />
In broken English he explained everything we needed to know, took us to the gas station and filled the tank, filled out all the forms with our driving licenses, all the while smiling cheerfully while repeating all the services we were getting for free, and generally told us everything except where to find the map to the entirely new highway system that now rings around and through Izmir! Sadly the car didn't come with a map. Needless to say there were no bookstores en route. In fact he called his office and someone drove to the gas station with a sort of tourist map, and that's how we went off in search of the hotel - on the new highway.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.clickforroom.com/uploadedImages/Hotel/touris/29/75229/e8ec09f1-5a2c-40df-b8fb-3f64b879e123.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="269" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://www.clickforroom.com/uploadedImages/Hotel/touris/29/75229/e8ec09f1-5a2c-40df-b8fb-3f64b879e123.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>We honestly found it by sheer luck, tempered by a vague memory of where Balçova was. As we were driving down a hill I happened to glance out the window and saw the entrance! Fortunately I looked at pictures on the net before we'd left!!<br />
<br />
The <a href="http://www.balcovatermal.com/otelenglish.aspx" linkindex="270">hotel</a> is a Thermal "spa" hotel, or rather small complex of spa facilities medical support, thermal swimming pools and jacuzzi, as well as meeting rooms and banquet facilities. There are two hotels: a simple hotel and a rather grand one. We were staying in the simple hotel. For 61 euros/night we got an en suite room, with a buffet breakfast and a buffet dinner and access to the pools and the fitness center as well as the park with the tennis courts and lovely gardens. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.istanbulshotels.com/balcovahotel/balcova2.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="271" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.istanbulshotels.com/balcovahotel/balcova2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">almost exactly our room</td></tr>
</tbody></table>As we had taken advantage of the bargain prices, we got the "bargain" rooms. <br />
<br />
The rooms were clean, if a bit "tired", but they were larger than I'd expected, and warm. <br />
<br />
The warmth was generated by the thermal waters that heat the place! In fact ALL the water was thermal. The shower, the sink... the toilet... yes, the water was hot in the toilet!! We actually had to run the cold tap for a while (the way you run the hot tap in most places!) in order to get the shower water to be a bit more bearable! Our last morning coincided with a group who got up early and took showers --- draining all the COLD water, and making our showers very brief, emerging hot pink and very clean. We felt that the temperature of the water had sanitized us.<br />
<br />
Our first objective after arrival was to scope our our local environment ... AND buy a map. The hotel didn't sell any maps in the gift shop. <br />
<br />
We drove into Izmir, but ended up doing so by taking a back road, the only road that we recognized. SO many changes. When we arrived in town, we parked at the only familiar memory in town (so we could find the car again!!) the Hilton hotel parking ramp. Fortunately we managed to do it with all the elan we'd hoped to show C& S so as not to worry them overmuch at our bafflement of how to get around!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/7185/erdalkkonakpier1nc3.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="272" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/7185/erdalkkonakpier1nc3.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
We wandered around a bit and tried a few places looking for a good map (including the Hilton hotel!) and couldn't find one, but we were referred to the "new" Konak Pier. When we lived there, the Konak pier was really just a sad falling down structure that was being eyed for demolition, until someone finally decided to invest in it and "do" something. When we left, they were still working out what they were "doing".<br />
<br />
<a href="http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/3294/konakpier351fe8.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="273" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="142" src="http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/3294/konakpier351fe8.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=375292" linkindex="274">The Konak Pier building </a>was designed by the famous <b>Gustave Eiffel </b> in the 1870s and has been used as French Customs, İzmir Customs, fish market and parking lot. The original steel construction structure were renovated with the latest technology and began to be used as a modern shopping mall in 1998. Konak Pier is the most prestigious center in Izmir with its movie theaters, restaurants and the famous brand shops. It is located on an area of 8,000 m2. A small parking lot is available.<br />
<br />
It's lovely inside and filled with great stores, restaurants and a movie thearter. Also a really terrific bookstore with many, many English language books. In <a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=tr&u=http://www.yellowpages.com.tr/profile/NjA5MTUx/Remzi-Kitabevi.html&ei=TwZ8Td_OJs6ChQegvIzrBg&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=3&sqi=2&ved=0CDUQ7gEwAg&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dremzi%2Bkitabevi%2Bizmir%26hl%3Den%26prmd%3Divnscm" linkindex="275">Remzi Kitabevi</a> I bought several good maps, with the help of a really great guy who spoke excellent English and found exactly what I was looking for.<br />
<br />
We would never have had the money to retire to Corfu, if that bookstore had been in town when we lived there.<br />
<br />
So we returned to the hotel and had a surprisingly delicious dinner. (The food was simple Turkish home cooking with fresh ingredients and a large variety of dishes to select.) There were two other restaurants in the same building and if you ordered your meal (and paid for it!!) there, then you could enjoy wine with dinner. Our meals came with water, fruit juices, tea and coffee.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5519440563_349e13e08a.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="276" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5519440563_349e13e08a.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5252/5520031410_97f34739ba.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="277" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5252/5520031410_97f34739ba.jpg" width="200" /></a>We also discovered that the thermal pools were open until midnight. Yes. We did. And an amazing event it was, as the weather had turned cold.<br />
<br />
The jacuzzi was warm enough to need to get out and swim in the huge warm pool in order to cool down a bit. It was LOVELY.<br />
<br />
The next morning we left with the best of intentions and were planning to go to Priene, Miletus and Didyma. Due to a fair amount of confusion, and T throwing up his hands and saying we'd go the "old way" (meaning via the back roads from where our old house was). <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5519348571_4aeea65004.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="278" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5519348571_4aeea65004.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the old limani /agora</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>We'd arrived close to Ephesus by 10:30 in the morning and I knew that at this rate, we'd get to the three cities much too late to see much and we'd have to turn back before we'd explored everything. So, ever flexible, I suggested we visit Ephesus instead. That suggestion went down well and we'd arrived at our destination with plenty of time to wander. <br />
<br />
The new discoveries at the site, and the changes made to some of the standard things were wonderful as it was - for me- like visiting an old friend, and her new family!<br />
<br />
For now I'll just post pictures of Ephesus and let it speak for itself... or else the captions will!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5099/5519930954_3181605c73.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="279" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5099/5519930954_3181605c73.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">in the great theater- still used today!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5519342445_c3f8368f76.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="280" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5519342445_c3f8368f76.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">advertising to incoming sailors</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5519932760_f4ecf7b3eb.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="281" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5519932760_f4ecf7b3eb.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the library of Celsus</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5519940760_1653b85659.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="282" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5519940760_1653b85659.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">falling lizards... or beware the edge? you decide.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5139/5519350159_b29c4fa92d.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="283" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5139/5519350159_b29c4fa92d.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Samson after the haircut</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5519944948_b117cfd9f7.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="284" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5519944948_b117cfd9f7.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">main street Ephesus</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5299/5519934736_94850f646f.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="285" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5299/5519934736_94850f646f.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a sort of experiment in comfort</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/5519946302_24027d79ae.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="286" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/5519946302_24027d79ae.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">walk this way...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Inside the Slope Houses- the new excavations, now a new and wonderful exhibit.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5519365825_4ebd367905.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="287" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5519365825_4ebd367905.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a maze of upper class dwellings buried in the hillside</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5251/5519359493_47fb7ee306.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="288" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5251/5519359493_47fb7ee306.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">still assembling the puzzle pieces</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5253/5519963670_cdaa128aa2.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="289" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5253/5519963670_cdaa128aa2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">but when the puzzle pieces fit...</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5519962218_05b8519d38.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="290" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5519962218_05b8519d38.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">it can be pretty amazing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5094/5519368457_8becc56bcc.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="291" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5094/5519368457_8becc56bcc.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">imagining people going from room to room</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/5519367159_dd1447635f.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="292" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/5519367159_dd1447635f.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">maybe house proud</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5519369781_034116b215.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="293" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5519369781_034116b215.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">kitchen with cooking vent and fish painted on the wall...</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/5519363231_bb6f220b75.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="294" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/5519363231_bb6f220b75.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">early church like room inside the complex of houses</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5519950338_2d8cbd3346.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="295" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5519950338_2d8cbd3346.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">even looking up, there's something to see.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5519947698_f36752cef4.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="296" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5519947698_f36752cef4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">so many puzzle pieces left!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5296/5519965092_f40bce83f8.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="297" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5296/5519965092_f40bce83f8.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">exiting slope houses and wondering if they went to the library often...</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5519377019_319b550b06.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="298" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5519377019_319b550b06.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">walking back to the car</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5177/5519967854_b2aa5937a1.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="299" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5177/5519967854_b2aa5937a1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a choice for lunch in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ku%C5%9Fadas%C4%B1" linkindex="300">Kuşadası </a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>We returned to the hotel just in time to quickly change our clothes and be picked up by our Turkish friends. About twenty of them showed up at a wonderful cocktail party they threw for us. We felt so cherished (and so awful that we'd waited so long to come back for a visit!) Everyone looked fantastic and we were only sad for not seeing everyone we wanted to see.<br />
<br />
Sorry, by the way, the post has gone out so late, (I worked on it most of Saturday, but now it's 2 AM Sunday morning, so it would seem this will be a Sunday post!) I forgot that people need to fit into my day, even when I'm trying to write "important" things for my blog. (yes. go ahead and laugh. you know who you are!)<br />
<br />
Tomorrow, OK, later today, I'll try and make another post and include more of our excursions...<br />
<br />
g'night for now.truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6834521079833788561.post-70357636744528593722011-03-11T18:17:00.002+02:002011-03-11T22:34:41.885+02:00Of pleasures and palaces<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5055/5512255959_25f28d12d6.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="85" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5055/5512255959_25f28d12d6.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">street art-literally- near Galata tower</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"></div>We woke up "on vacation", a wonderful feeling wherein all the possibilities of the next two weeks are on the edge of your consciousness, waiting to happen. Even when you are 'retired', there's the same anticipation and refreshing feeling of things 'different'.<br />
<br />
T's brother and sister-in-law (from now on referred to as C & S) were arriving later in the day, so we got up and had a very nice breakfast in the hotel's breakfast room. It was a typical Turkish breakfast: bread, jam, honey, yogurt, sliced cucumbers, tomato wedges, white cheese, black olives, and hard boiled eggs.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5516750443_55846d4496.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="86" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5175/5516750443_55846d4496.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my <a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=tr&u=http://tr.wikipedia.org/wiki/%25C3%2587aydanl%25C4%25B1k&ei=bRV6Tb7KO4WBhQffve34Bg&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=8&sqi=2&ved=0CD0Q7gEwBw&prev=/search%3Fq%3D%25C3%25A7aydanl%25C4%25B1k%26hl%3Den%26prmd%3Divns" linkindex="87"><i>çaydanlık</i></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The preferred morning drink is <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turkish_tea" linkindex="88">çay</a> or Turkish tea. When I first arrived in Turkey it became important that I master the art of making tea and having it available for when someone would drop in.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5255/5517387870_14a4a14620.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="89" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5255/5517387870_14a4a14620.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a couple of my tea glasses</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Tea is typically prepared using two stacked kettles (<i>çaydanlık</i>) especially designed for tea preparation. Water is brought to a boil in the larger lower kettle and then some of the water is used to fill the smaller kettle on top and steep several spoons of loose tea leaves, producing a very strong tea.<br />
<br />
When served, the remaining water is used to dilute the tea on an individual basis, giving each person the choice between strong (<span lang="tr"><i>koyu</i></span>; "dark") or weak (<span lang="tr"><i>açık</i></span>; "light"). Tea is drunk from small glasses to enjoy it hot in addition to showing its color, and sweetened with lumps of sugar.<br />
<br />
As C & S wouldn't be arriving til evening, we decided to walk along Istikal street, and discover old landmarks and revisit places we'd gone years ago as well as discover where things were - in daylight.<br />
<br />
We did manage, along the way, to find a computer guy who got my laptop to work fine at his place of business, because he had unprotected wi-fi. Still the idiot computer continued to be stubborn in hotel (and all subsequent hotels) so I found myself letting go of my frustration with it and I began to refer to it as "my little door stop". I figured I'd go on vacation from my computer as well. <br />
<br />
I started keeping a journal on paper again and was amused by the novelty. However, I can't tell you how glad I was to have printed out all relevant emails, confirmations, and tickets (along with receipts!) that I had arranged before we left on the trip. Several times, they became VERY important to have to hand.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5512841780_34aeda5a0c.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="90" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5512841780_34aeda5a0c.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://istanbul.mydestinationinfo.com/en/h%C3%BCseyin-aga-mosque" linkindex="91">Hüseyin Aga Camii</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>We walked from Taksim Square to the Galata tower, taking in the sights and sounds (I have too many pictures of the buildings along the way, as I was fascinated by how lovely so many of them were!)<br />
<br />
Along the way we went <a href="http://istanbul.mydestinationinfo.com/en/st-anthony-of-padua-catholic-cathedral" linkindex="92">inside</a> to see <a href="http://www.360cities.net/image/st-anthony-of-padua-cathedral-istanbul#0.00,-0.00,110.0" linkindex="93">St Anthony of Padua Cathedral</a> (link is a cool 360 photograph- not mine) and we also, just to be ecumenical, stopped to see a small but lovely old mosque Hüseyin Aga Camii built in 1597. We hunted up the locations of a few places to visit the following day and then we took the little tram from Galata all the way back up to Taksim Square.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5512856844_57c4963c2d.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="94" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5512856844_57c4963c2d.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">lightly battered shrimp- very yum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We found a very nice Chinese restaurant, full with a lot of locals, where we had lunch. The food was made by a real Chinese chef and was wonderful, though the decor was seemingly an afterthought. Still, the prices were reasonable the food delicious, and so for me "Life was Good."<br />
<br />
C& S arrived safe and sound and best of all with no problems. They checked in and then we all went for a short walk, then on to dinner at <a href="http://www.hacibabarest.com/html/hakkimizda_eng.html" linkindex="95">Haci Baba</a> restaurant. (<i>if you click the link, we sat at the middle table next to the window!</i>) <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5255/5514887433_3f353dd1eb.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="96" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5255/5514887433_3f353dd1eb.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">end of tour downpour</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
We all made an early night of it and we off and running shortly after breakfast to visit <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolmabah%C3%A7e_Palace" linkindex="97">Dolmabahçe Palace.</a> We decided to walk, as C& S expressed a need to stretch their legs after 19 hours in an airplane. So walk we did from our hotel to the Bosphorus! Then we walked the whole of the Palace tour. When we finished it was pouring rain, so we decided to visit the little <a href="http://www.istanbulhotelsonline.com/istanbulguide/architecture/Dolmabahce-Palace-Museum" linkindex="98">clock museum</a> and the 'crystal palace' which turned out to be a (newly opened to the public) lovely Victorian solarium in one of the houses in the palace grounds. <br />
<br />
Were it not for the rain we might have missed both! The clock museum was filled with amazing treasures, both Ottoman and European, gorgeous unique clocks (at least one of which took a whole lifetime to build) very nicely displayed.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5512873830_ba91b22121.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="99" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5512873830_ba91b22121.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kamondo Staircase</td></tr>
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From the palace we made our way to the Metro and took the T1 from Beşiktaş to Karaköy. Originally we'd thought of continuing on the metro and taking the second oldest underground rail line, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T%C3%BCnel" linkindex="101"><b>Tünel</b></a>, (1875; <i>after </i>the London underground in 1863!) but we took the amazing (and iconic thanks to <a href="http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/lchak/Henri%20Cartier-Bresson/?action=view&current=istanbulTheKamondostairs1965.jpg&sort=ascending" linkindex="102">Cartier-Bresson's photo</a>) <a href="http://www.timeoutistanbul.com/english/40/the_kamondo_stairs" linkindex="103">Kamondo staircase</a> (1870) instead, finding yet another little piece of art nouveau tucked away in the city. <br />
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We made it to the Galata tower again, (from the other direction this time) and C & S went to the top. (as T is not fond of heights and I'd been up there already years ago, we stayed below in a little cafe and had a glass of fresh pressed orange juice..)<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5512877344_735f85c955.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="104" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5512877344_735f85c955.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">tea at the Pera Palac</td></tr>
</tbody></table>From the tower, we decided on a short walk to the venerable Pera Palace Hotel, there to have our version of "tea". Two of us had lovely cocktails whilst those of us with real brilliance decided to try the profiteroles. (and, oh my, were they amazing.)<br />
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I was one of the brilliant ones. (see my profiteroles with incredible chocolate sauce, below. They were so good, I have nothing to compare them with!)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5512282553_1523b754e4.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="105" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5512282553_1523b754e4.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">profiteroles to die for</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We sat in the main salon and listened to classical music and took in the ambiance. SO cool. The room had enormously high ceilings making for a rich and wonderful musical sound.<br />
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I could imagine myself in an Agatha Christie novel, and expected to see Hercule Poirot step into the room at any moment.<br />
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We decided, since we were so close- even though we were pretty well walked out- to go across the street and see the Frieda Kahlo/Diego Rivera exhibit at the Pera Museum.<br />
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It was there that I had a little senior moment, as when the lady was about to sell us the tickets, she asked if any of us were students or over 60, and three hands went up, whilst I started to say I wasn't 60 yet... only to remember that in fact I was creeping up on 62!! Ah the irony! The last time I was in Istanbul, I wasn't even 50!! Of course I took a great deal of crap for the rest of the afternoon, from the three hand raiser "over sixties" on that boo-boo.<br />
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The exhibits were wonderful but we were totally blown out of the water with the <a href="http://en.peramuzesi.org.tr/exhibitions/detail_temporary_exhibitions.aspx?SectionID=acgvFTvCk7ByFFnLJxJojA%3D%3D&ContentID=YSHVFwUNp%2Fi0mRZSRH1j1Q%3D%3D" linkindex="106">Scenes from Tsarist Russia</a> exhibit offered from the State Russian Museum in Saint Petersburg , with paintings from the 19 century, in the period of Russian realism. It was stunning. (it also shined a spotlight on the life of the average man and what it meant to be a serf! Almost makes you understand the Russian revolution.)<br />
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After that we all knew it was time to take a little rest before we went out for dinner. Thankfully. We all napped well for a couple of hours.<br />
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We opted to walk back to Istikal street and search out a place for dinner. Dinner ended up not so special - and fairly expensive as "we" decided to listen to the "very nice man" who walked along side of us and directed us to his restaurant. [Reminder to self: NEVER eat in a restaurant where there are no other people...really.] T and I had misgivings but we figured it was probably going to be a good lesson early on in the trip for C & S. It was.<br />
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After dinner we walked around a bit and took in the lights and made our farewells to Beyoğlu.<br />
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The next morning we were packed and ready to check out by 9. Our transport showed up on time and swept us off in comfort to Sabiha Gökçen International Airport on the Anatolian side of the Bosphorus.<br />
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And a fine welcome to Asia it was!<br />
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Tomorrow I'll write a bit more about the next leg of the journey, but I'll close with a few more pictures from our time in Beyoğlu.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5512252313_97cbf5ebcb.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="107" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5512252313_97cbf5ebcb.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galata neighborhood</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5512279007_c55e2eb4c5.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="108" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5254/5512279007_c55e2eb4c5.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">T, C & S walking past a tobacco seller</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5015/5512262885_0ba92af3e2.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="109" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5015/5512262885_0ba92af3e2.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">hanging out my hotel balcony in the rain</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5512265373_423acd10d6.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="110" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5512265373_423acd10d6.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.santaottomanboutiquehotel.com/en/index.asp" linkindex="111">Santa Ottoman Hotel</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5512863704_310e2b94f0.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="112" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5512863704_310e2b94f0.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galata tower at night</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5098/5514882851_00e904397a.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="113" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5098/5514882851_00e904397a.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Memorial (with Atatürk) Taksim Square</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5094/5512372191_ffc3450084.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="114" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5094/5512372191_ffc3450084.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dolmabahçe in the rain</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5214/5512374699_42e1f11d8e.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="115" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5214/5512374699_42e1f11d8e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">more Dolmabahçe in the rain</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5512375885_67fe0f996b.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="116" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5512375885_67fe0f996b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Palace guard</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5512871536_9a780098e6.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="117" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5056/5512871536_9a780098e6.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Bosphorus</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5512878708_b697060679.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="118" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5512878708_b697060679.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">newly restored ceiling in Pera Palace Hotel</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5055/5512267765_d1ce055208.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="119" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5055/5512267765_d1ce055208.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taksim Square at night</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young Turks protesting politely</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5100/5512268995_f332734dd3.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="121" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5100/5512268995_f332734dd3.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">side street near our hotel</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5515476770_006292b7b4.jpg" imageanchor="1" linkindex="122" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5300/5515476770_006292b7b4.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">we're having fun!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>truestarrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00147210730080999426noreply@blogger.com2