I'm alive... and visiting Old Perithia!

hillsides of old Perithia covered with crocus

Yes.  Well.  What can I say.  The month of September just got away from me.  It slipped through my life like socks on a waxed floor, and the best I can do is tell you that I had a wonderful time of it!

Highlights include: "Saint Middle Son"'s visit; a trip to Brussels for a cousins wedding; (with concurrent visit/housesitting by charming Englilsh friends); delightful impromptu end of month American houseguests for sailing, and a delightful meeting, on purpose, with cruise ship passenger parents of son's dear friend for a day visit to Corfu (with lunch). 

Old Perithia

But I'm going to start with last weekend first... 

FINALLY, I visited old Perithia.   Friends invited us to lunch at Foros Taverna (along with a nice amble and a bit of "work" clipping and picking wild rose hips from the bushes along the high paths).

Tomas drawing in background

Tomas the proprietor is a wonderful host with a surprising talent: he draws a picture of the village on a business card while you are eating!! (his phone number and hours are on the back for reference.)

His food (well, his wife's food!) was wonderful and the five of us ate plates and plates of meze instead of ordering a traditional meal because it was all SO good.  For dessert he served us a delicious walnut cake which was incredible.[I hadn't realized he was "famous" as Rick Stein and Italian television has put him on the map- he is NOT a prima dona sort of guy- at all! Nor are his prices! Plus he loves dogs and told us Balou was always welcome...]

We decided to take the Balou along with us, because although she's large, she's so quiet and gentle and just so huggable, that we figured she'd be fine.  (and she was!)  She loved walking in the mountains smelling new smells and finding new brambles and weeds to get stuck in her fur (though I think she really enjoyed lying around under the table at the taverna best!) 

The weather was perfect and the company was totally enjoyable.

Old Perithia is the ruins of an absolutely lovely village high up in the mountain almost on level with Pantokrator [914 meters]   It was built in the 14th century as an escape from the two big annoyances of the times: pirates and malaria.  It's a perfect example of a traditional Corfiot inland village.   By the 20th century both annoyances had pretty much been cleared away, so everyone moved to their "other properties" near the sea, and "old" Perithia was born.

one of 8 (or 11)

In its hey-dey, old Perithia boasted a police station, a school, a court house and 8 (to 11- information varies!) churches- built by the individual families!- with over 1500 residents- many of whom where well off.

Now there are only a handful of people who remain all year.  Thankfully the great taverna owners (Tomas included!) are among the people who stay year-round!!

I'll include a few photos of the ride there...

looking towards Butrint (Albania)

You drive past Kassiopi and before you get to Acharavi you take the turn to Perithia, Old Perithia and Loutses.  [picture is of the delta where the sea used to wash right up to the edge of the ancient city of Butrint - a world heritage archaeological site in Albania.

The road winds up several switchbacks and takes you quite high up and deep into the center of Corfu.


So that's my lovely Corfu for now.  I will try and give you a bit more details on Brussels and saintly son's visit in my next post...

(not to mention at some point I'll have to give you the three incredible recipes I used to serve our visitors who came for lunch!  Three Corfiot specialties: Sofrito, Chicken Pastisada, and my favorite: "little shoes" or Papousakia....)